It would be interesting to note that Mobil 0W40 is the OEM oil for the likes of Porsche and AMG - factory filled as they say. It is actually reported to be have developed for European cars. Whethere the S made for the EU is considered an EU car or not, I dunno. But given similar levels of technology (clearances etc.) in engines, maybe the 0W40 can't be too bad (despite the wide variance in hot/cold viscosity) for the S.

 

just checked up on the Fram filter they put in my car:

Fram Extra Guard PH8A (PH3593A):

This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow.

from http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html



Dear Lord, please let the f$%&(* oil filter in my car not ruin it before I can change it. Amen

Now for football....

 

Are you positive he said this because it just isn't true?

 

This is starting to get good.

 

[QUOTE=silencertk,Jun 9 2006, 01:58 PM] I've been changing my oil with mobil1 extended performance 5w-30 and mobil 1 filter.

Yesterday after doing some research i switched to valvoline max life synthetic 10w-30 and a pure one filter and am impressed. valvetrain noise reduced by like 50%.

 

I doubt the fram will cause any damage.. but definitely get it off there ASAP. They are built like crap with crap materials and they filter like crap.

 

If you like to try 0W30 in your engine and you have only 0W40, then get 0W20 of the same brand and mixing 2.5 liters 0W40 with 2.5 liters 0W20, you will have 5 liters 0W30.

 

TR-S2K Posted on Jun 11 2006, 08:37 AM
I have been reading about mixing same brand / type oils to get a specific viscosity range on BITOG as well
It crossed my mind.
But... I can't find the Shell oil I would need in 0W-20.

 

I am not a tribologist either, but the following is what I know:
0W40 oil isn't thin; however, it will shear slightly greater than 5W40 and 10W40 because of the high viscosity spread. On the other hand, a 0W40 oil only comes in SYNTHETIC form (group 3, 4 , or 5 base oil); so when it does shear it will probably be no greater than conventional 5W40.
Many people think 0W30 and 0W40 are thin because of the 0w denotation. There is no such thing as a 0 weight and I don't think there is such a thing as a 5 weight. It is basically a performance number. It earned the right to be labaled 0W as per SAE J300 viscosity chart. Thus, it is a 0W since it is less than 6200 CP (centipoise) at -35C and it meets the SAE 40 100C requirements at 100C.
Someone in here mentioned earlier that a 10W30 oil is thicker than a 0W40. Well, that person isn't entirely right nor is he entirely incorrect. A 10W30 is thicker than a 0W40 when it is really cold and thinner than 0W40 when the engine reaches operating temperature, which is about 100 celsius.

NOTE: Group 3 base oil is not 100% synthetic.
CENTIPOISE: a unit of measurement for viscosity in the centimeter-gram-second system that is equal to one hundredth of a poise.

 

And to add: there is no such thing as "a 10W-30" or "a 0W-40".
As you can see in the list I linked to there are many oils having the same SAE rating but different viscositys at the same end temperature.
If you want to know how they do in between you have to do a full range viscosity test. The lines may cross at several points.

There is a great danger using a 0W-40 btw ........
You have to be absolutely very consious about what you do and behave like an adult when the engine is still cold. Because when cold it feels like its allready warm and OK to rev. And its NOT! Proper warm up time is still needed!
(yeah.. stirring things up a bit )