and mine also flickers on. it just recently started since ive moved up here to northern Ohio which is very much colder from where i moved from (TN). and ive always used 10w-30. so i would speculate it is with the cold temps.

 

it it okay if i change the oil in lets say 5000 miles? i mean will it do damage or is it harmless? i know it cant b good but is it really that serious

 

[QUOTE=slipstream444,Apr 3 2009, 10:15 AM]Change to a 5W30 if the temps are very cold, or a 10W30 and this should stop.

 

This is a pretty good question -- and indirectly points back to the use of VIIs in an engine oil. Any broad based oil viscosity range is going to require the use of VIIs - synthetic or not. However, the BEST 5W40s out there (Redline's for instance) actually look a lot like a 10W40 (to which we then go back to page one of this argument).

The issue with the whole viscosity index rating is you have a lot of engine oils out there that can belong to a number of viscosity ranges - due to the grey area built into viscosity ranges... and the oil's "average" behavior. A lot of 5W40s out there really look a lot like a repackaged 10W40... and quickly revert to a true 10W40 viscosity as the fragile VIIs break down.

In fact, there's not a singe 5W40 currently available that I would use as a substitute for a 5W30 (for colder environments) or a 10W30 in the S2000. The S2000 does not require a 40 weight oil in 95% of inhabited North America, Europe and Asia. A wider listed viscosity range does NOT make a better oil. Remember the birth of the 5W50 (the first Castrol Syntech)? Bigger range and numbers does NOT make a better oil.

The greater the range - the greater the use of VIIs - and the faster that oil will initially thicken (as the VIIs break down), and then shear down to a lower viscosity.
You need a viscosity range that remains consistent, that an engine is designed to use - and has minimal transitions (from its optimal range, to a thicker range, to a thinner range).
A quality synthetic 10W30 stays within its range longer and with less viscosity variation.

In the case of the AP1 or AP2: if you live in a relatively cold environment - 5W30. If you live in the world between freezing and ~115F: 10W30. If you live in the shadow of the sun and see 115+F regularly... you can probably justify a 10W40.

Remember - the latter number (the 30 or 40 weight part of a 5WXX or 10WXX oil) is derived from the oil's characteristics at an operating temp of 100C - which is really at the outer edge of any engine oil's max performance. As hard as I drive my cars - the hottest I've seen my oil get is about 97C. In other words - the oil doesn't get hot enough to even consider going thicker. If I was seeing something at or above 100C... that would be a reason to look for a problem... or in the absence of a problem, perhaps be a reason to go with a 10W40.

 

is it gonna cause a problem if i dont change it for a few weeks

 

If its cold where you are I would say change it, why risk it?

 

I don't think it's going to cause huge problems in the short term - but I recommend you let your engine warm up slightly before driving the car, and fully warm up (10 minutes of kind and gentle driving) before driving the car hard.
I personally would avoid both lugging the car (high loads at low RPM), and avoid high RPM driving until you switch out with a more appropriate oil viscosity. Additionally, make sure you're using a quality filter - I highly advise using the OEM "PCX" filter.

 

i never drive my engine past 4000 rpm! untill 20 ins at least!! i use oem filter too, thanks slipstream