I'm in the middle of doing a short block. I pushed the limit
too far. 91 oct, 3.87 pulley, no cooler, and too much timing
I pulled the engine out and took it apart. The rings were all broken. The Pistons
were shot, melted and scratched up. (DETONATION!) If you want to see it, I can show it.

What to do? (Mild rebuild)
Purchase Short Block:
1. Trim a few millimeters off the piston dome on all the pistons.
2. Heat coat the pistons and valves.
3. Installing new performance rings.
4. Install the MUGEN Thermostat and Fan Switch.
5. Water/Air aftercooler instead of Air/Air. I want to Y off the
return to run along the A/C lowside to help keep the water
cool, real cool.
6. Port the heads.
7. Polish and powder coat the intake manifold.
8. Bore out the Throttle Body to 70 mm.
9. Install a performance CAT. (Still have stock headers/Exhaust)
any good recommendations?
10 Use a 3.5 pulley. (Max imp speed)
11. 50% racing fuel(100 octane/91 octane)


This will pretty much max out using the NOVI-1000.

The next build using my old block and crank, will be to figure out
how to mount the NOVI-2000! and run either 9:1, 9.5:1 or 10:1
C/R to run high boost at 20+..

On the road again

 

Sleeve the SOB out to a 90mm bore, run 9.5:1 compression and have fun!

UL

 

I don't mean to sound cryptic, but there are clearance issues with the stock pistons vs aftermarket, and also overboring makes these issues even more critical. I definetly recommend using Mike Simon to build your motor as he is an accomplished F20C builder. He has rebuilt the motor many times and is aware of all of the little tricks and quirks about the motor. The F20C is different in several very small ways that you wouldn't even notice when taking the motor apart.... Definetly don't overbore it unless you're sure you know what you're doing.

1. Don't shave the stock pistons, that's silly. Take a weak link and make it weaker....??
2. Heat coating your pistons and valves isn't going to prevent detonation.
3. If you don't sleeve your block, be careful what rings you select.
4. Mugen thermostat and fan switch won't make the difference between a blown/not blown engine.
5. Good idea, remember air to air is always going to be more efficient for street usage.
6. Use Alaniz Technologies for porting the head (singular )
7.
8.
9. Who needs a cat?
10.
11. This will help with your timing problem.

20+ psi you should definetly be doing some research on your motor build. You'll need rods, aftermarket pistons, and with out a doubt you'll need to sleeve it.

Have fun. Whatever you decide for your budjet, multiply by 2 and add $3000. (Unless of course you go with a turn-key solution.. )

Chris

 

Exactly!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks Chris, constructive feedback is always welcome.

 

If you gonna do all this work you should consider a turbo kit instead. The only advantage I saw in the superchargers is that it's a kit with no need to break open the engine. If you are gonna break open the engine you should just go turbo.

 

does Golden Eagle make sleeves for this block like they did with the integra gsr engines? if so i highly recomend getting a set of them installed by them.

 

Why air to air is better than water/air aftercooler on the street usage? I have an air to air front mount intercooler........just wondering....

 

I disagree with the comment about air/air being more efficient than air/water for street.

People usually use drag racers systems as the basis for that opinion. Drag Racers are more concerned about weight so run undersized radiators on the IC.

They want to keep it cool for one run. They really rely upon ice water for the cooling, not the rad to keep the water temps down.

If you use the proper size radiator you can keep much more consistent boost temps over a longer period of time.

Tell me more about this Y and the coolside AC.

Laminova (http://www.laminova.se/) recomends using the AC to further cool the water. I don't remember exactly where it is on the site. I bookmarked it for future reference, but haven't had the need yet.

As for cats, try Random Technologies. Their cat for the S is a 4" unit that flows about 150cfm more than stock. It is a sight to behold!

IIANM all of the boosted race cars like the LeMans Audi use Air to water.