Alright s2ki, after lots of reading I have decided to make a thread of my own. Long story short I had to change my radiator and refill with coolant. I didnt drain the whole block, just the radiator. It would overheat etc but I did some bleeding and got better.

Now the problem I had last night after just bleeding it while it was on flat surface was that the temp guage would be 3bars, freeway or normal driving. As soon as I would slow down, it would go to 4 for a while and I back down. Heater was fully hot.

Some said that it's still air in the system so took it on a steep hill and bleeded it again. This time coolant came from the heater core area too, I capped that. Then I let coolant come from the intake manifold. Topped it off, and closed the cap. Starte the motor, and had I running for a while. I kept opening the intake manifold bleeder screw to let more air out until just coolant was coming.

Now I drive it, pretty hard for like 10mins. 3 bars temps, everything looked good apart from one thing that did not change from last night. The top hose is hot, bottom is cold. Like really cold. Another thing is that my radiator fans never turn off, is that because of the ap2 sensor that came with radiator? My original one would not fit in there so I had to tap the wires.

 

Sorry it's too long, but I hope I get a response from some of you. I just don't want to be driving it, and hurting the motor without even knowing.

Thanking you all in advance

 

Does the heater blow hot air?

Have you used Billman250's bleeding procedure?

 

Yes it does blow hot air, and I think that's the procedure I usedz

 

I had the same issue with my S for months because I purchase a Mishimoto radiator. What acutally solved the my problem was the damn radiator cap. I could not believe it.

I had the same signs like you did but my sh*t spiked up to 5 bars and then die down like a damn see saw.

 

^^ that was one of my thoughts because when working on my car when it wasn't running, I lost my oem one so I bought a Autozone one. And I can feel it being kind of loose. Does that mean it leak air from the cap?

 

Only way to find out is to get a OEM one from someone or buy one.

 

Hey I've just installed a mishimoto onto my S and am having the same problem except I havent taken it on a test drive being afraid it may overheat. Heat is coming from my heater when it's turned on, everything seems to working properly except that the lower hose remains cool in tempeture. Can you update us on how your issue was resolved? thanks ! OH and I also have my OEM cap that came off the denso.. does anyone know if that'll work better ?

 

I just swapped for a Mishi also (plastic endcap on the OEM cracked).
My Mishi cap leaked (very common problem). OEM won’t fit; you need a Honda type F. I got a cap at AutoZone for about $7 that fits. Here is a list of what fits the Mishi:
■Honda 88-91 Civic/CRX
■97-01 Prelude (all models)
■Acura Integra 90-93.
■Scion 2013+ FR-S
■Subaru 2013+ BRZ

 

Based on your description you did not do Billman's bleed procedure. I wouldn't think the one you did is necessarily wrong, but Billman posted his own for a reason, and it worked for me.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/818...h/page__st__25