Boofster

Is there even a point of staking the nut after it's tightened so hard?

s2000ellier

Stake the nut, its a safety thing and it only takes a few seconds.

FISH22

So, I did this today, thinking I could possibly save my right rear bearing/hub... I've had a weird oscillating rumbling sound for the past few months, and it has gotten worse over time. Came to the conclusion that it's not wheels or tires(have swapped out plenty of wheel/tire setups over the last few months). Well, the noise is still there. I wasn't able to achieve the 2 o'clock position though. Got both sides to about 1 o'clock. I have a friend that's going to be replacing the hub/bearing on Monday.

One thing I noticed though, that was pretty weird... When I was loosening the right side(bad side), the second I broke it's torque, I heard a "ssshhhhhhh" sound, and some slight bubbles coming from underneath the axle nut. Seemed like there was a ton of pressure behind it along with some condensation. Has anyone else noticed this before? Would this be a sign that my right rear bearing is definitely shot?

s2k-tilldeath

WOW!! Thanks Billman! My friend and I both did our rear axle nuts today! First we did it on my car and it took us about 5 minutes... then we pulled his car in the garage and we did it in about 3 minutes. Thanks again for the easy fix!

vstypicals

FYI, you can rent a 36mm socket from Pepboys..

erikvanden

I have been trying to do this for a while now. My rear axle nuts apear to be stuck on very good. Even with a 3/4in breaker bar and a 4 foot pole I can't get it to move. I even tried lubricating the nut and also tried a propane torch to loosen it up. Nothing. I guess my only hope is to wait for summer and try to get it off with a high torque impact wrench?

I had a lot of issues getting my crank pulley bolt off as well. that eventually came off with all the force I was putting on it. I do not want to put in that much force on it with the axle nut though. My fear is it slipping of and the pole scratching the side of my car. I am still putting my whole body weight into it though. I am not sure what to do. I live in Minnesota so I am sure there is so rust on some of those parts.

dwight

How about a larger pipe? 1 in. x 10 ft. Galvanized Steel Pipe?

If rust is the issue maybe a penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster would help.

Maybe a truck repair shop can help you out. I'm sure they have some way to remove large fasteners. Here's one place that I found witch a quick search.
http://www.dieselandimport.com/index.html

sn0wman

Most of the torque wrenches I've seen only go upto 220 lb/ft. What did you guys use?

mister x

It helps to get the socket onto the nut absolutely straight. I used a 10' pipe on a 1/2" drive ratchet but supported the head of the ratchet with the OEM scissors jack. The jack had to be put on a brick to get about 2" more height but with the extra leverage and support the nut came off easily but with a sudden bang. There was light corrosion between the nut face and the hub which no doubt make it much harder to remove.

dwight

It doesn't really matter if your torque wrench goes to 150 or 250. The difference in angle is very small. The thing is that after you torque it up to there, you'll be very close to the factory position. After you that, you need to turn it an extra 60-70 degrees.

If you want an actual torque number, skkppy said he measured it to 380-400 ft-lbs. You'll need a 3/4" torque wrench for that. Given the price, most people should just go by angle.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1O9OE