tizbad2k

what would happen if the rear spindle nuts were put on at 240 ft/lb instead of the reccomended 220. What kinds of problems would this cause?

I know the fronts are supposed to be 242 ft/lb and the rears used to be specced at 180ft/lb but then honda increased this to 220 ft/lb. How big is the difference between 220 and 240, i know its 20, but am asking in terms of stress on the materials. Couldnt a non well calibrated torque wrench accidentaly put you at 240 ft/lb's?

RACER

I'm no engineer, but I wouldn't go much past 200 lbs of torque.

cdelena

I would not think a 10% difference is going to cause any problem on that part.

I wonder how many torque wrenches are accurate at the high end of the scale. I had trouble with my rear spindle nuts because my click torque wrench was not accurate at higher settings.. mine were well under tightened and when I took it to Honda they used a beam wrench that solved the problem.

tizbad2k

To tell you the truth the reason i asked is because i couldnt find any torque wrenches that would go that high. But i have an impact wrench rated at 240 ft/lb. But even if 240 had been an ok amount of torque to use i am wary about about using an impact wrench, because i would bet that they are conservative about the ratings.

Luckily though i found out that autozone will loan out a torque wrench thats can go upto 250 ft/lb. Its the click type and I was a bit worried knowing that those need to be calibrated often. So i asked him to check the last time it was rented and he said a more than 3 months , so if its used to unoften its probably within a decent margin of error, i wonder if they calibrate them though.


RACER--- why would you say not go past 200, when the new honda spec is 220?

hukares

I'm not sure how familiar you are with torque wrenches, but make sure that the wrench is set to the minimum setting when you pick it up. If it sat that long with tension on the internal spring by being set to a higher torque, then it is probably out of adjustment.

tizbad2k

i didnt know that, thanks for the info, if i remember correcly it was set at about 100 when i picked it up, and the its range is 50-250. So its probably a bit out of spec.

xviper

I have a beam type torque wrench but it only goes up to 200. When I did mine, I could only "guess" to 220. Assuming that my hub nuts were not loose to begin with and were still at about the 180 mark, after the tightening, the nut moved about 1/2" further from where the original indentation was. Since this is not the type of bearing that is adjusted by torque and given the size of the shaft and the nut that goes onto it, I'm not feeling apprehensive about what I did.

tizbad2k

i too have a beam type as well, but its only goes to 150, thats why i borrowed the other one.

xviper ---- i dont know how safe it was earlier, that sounds pretty bad to me , if the nut went in by a half inch it sounds like it wasnt really torqued on properly to begin with. It might have just been there stuck on a bent thread or somthing.

Isnt the torque generally applied once the nut has been screwed down as much as it will go , so its basically almost flush against the back surface, and then the torque is applied which actually puts a measured (and correct) amount of stress on the materials so they will stay in place.??

xviper

No, no! Not 1/2" travel along the shaft of the axle. 1/2" travel along the circumference of the nut where it's pounded in. Where the indent is, this part moved about 1/2" (like on a clock face). I had to pound the new indent about 1/2" from the original one. An increase of about 40 lb/ft would do this.

I may be reading your reply wrong, but I think you have a misconception of how torquing nuts and bolts work. If the nut is not seated against its final position ("flush", as you call it), you will not be able to continue to add torque. Torque causes stretching of the threads and what the threads are connected to. That's how it holds and that's how torque numbers are determined for any given size of nut/bolt. You are always applying torque when you put on a nut. If you don't, it won't turn. As it gets to the "end", the torque needed to turn it begins to increase. You simply stop when the specified torque is reached.

tizbad2k

1st- i get it, i see what you saying now

2nd- we are actually agreeing. with the torquing process. Dont forget im an engineer (in training). You happened to refer the the initial turning process as torqueing (which it technically is) as well as the final stressing. I was simply refering to the final part as torquing, we both mean the same thing.

as usual though i always welcome your comments and corrections