So you took out the cotter pin #34, removed the castle nut #28 and the ball joint just popped out?

Are you sure it is still straight?
How did that tapered end looked like?

The lower arm ball joint is part of the knuckle as far as I understand.
(as the upper ball joint is part of the upper control arm)
I can not find a a procedure to remove it from the knuckle.
So maybe you need to replace the knuckle too.

Succes.

 

You know, the whole knuckle's only $145 from Majestic Honda? If I was doing this, I'd just buy a knuckle. Hell, I'm tempted to buy the 2005 parts and upgrade my rear suspension to 2005 specs.

 

Not sure what you mean by "tapered" but yes, I removed 34 and 28 and the control arm just came off.

The ball joint for the lower arm is part of the knuckle, while the upper ball joint is part of the control arm.

Is this odd that it would come out like that?




(I do not think I will be replaceing just the ball joint, the knuckle took the impact as wekk and I will probably replace that.)

 

It's an AP1. What parts don't fit? Were there changes in the sub-frame too when they went to AP2?


205012 003 1 KNUCKLE, R. RR. NO COLOR 194.34 145.76 Qty:
205013 004 1 KNUCKLE, L. RR. NO COLOR 194.34 145.76 Qty:

Is what I see on Majestic. You pay the right hand price.

Hub comes with studs. ABS sensors are the same AP1 and AP2.

 

Luke530 Posted on Aug 9 2006, 12:52 AM
Tapered = A gradual decrease in thickness or width of an elongated object.

The ball joint is tapered where it goes into the lower arm.
That is why you need a ball joint popper to get it out.
Tapered parts "tighten" themselfs under load.
Up to a point, it depends on the angle of being tapered.
IIRC if it is between 4 and 8 degrees it is "self tightning".

 

well, i know what tapared means, thanks! LOL!

now... I have NO IDEA whether or not the ball joint was tapered or not, or why it just fell out like that... it was really odd.

could that cause my camber problem?

It's going to the shop at the beginning of next week, but i'm also friends with the owner, so it would help him maybe if I could tell him what I know and what happened, as well as try to maybe figure out the problem

THANKS!
-Luke

 

A bend ball joint could make allignment difficult.
I think.

Succes.

 

I found one more interesting thing.

The castle nut and threaded part of the lower ball joint can be seen with the wheels on the car. There is not much clerance between it and the inside edge of the wheel. On the good side, the clearance is greater then on the other side.

I just took a small piece of thin plastic pipe, It cleared the good side, but would not clear the other side.

BTW, Thanks for the Drawing!

 

I'm confused now...

The upper A-arms are different b/w the AP1 & AP2.
The knuckle is the same for both correct? It also comes with studs?

 

the rear passanger side is considered the RIGHT side, correct?

I'm pretty sure I will just need the "hunk of iron w/ ball joint" lol

Thanks Harry!