Is it necessary to mark the position of the various pulleys when removing the drive belt?

I am having a hard time removing my crank pulley as part of a S/C install, so I looked up youtube so see what people are doing to get the pulley bolt loose. I noticed on some vehicles, you must mark the positions of the various pulleys so that you do not mess up the cam gear timing. Well, I did not mark the pulleys before I started and I have lost the original position of the crank pulley. There was no mention of marking the pulley in the S/C install instructions. When searching through the forums, it appears that the drive/serpentine belt is different from the timing chain in the S2000. Did I messed something up or am I just confusing a drive belt vs a serpentine belt vs a timing belt/chain?

Thanks in advance for any clarification.


P.S. I still haven't got that darn pulley bolt loose!

 

S2K only have 1 belt outside the engine (serpentine belt)and 1 timing chain inside the head/block...

but for your question, No... you dont have to mark it or put it the same way.. and the crank pulley will only go in 1 position... make sure you dont lose the small pin when taking it down

 

The only belts that need to worry about timing/match marking have teeth on them. For instance, a timing belt on a Civic or Accord.

You will need a Honda crank holding tool to break the bolt loose and torque it properly.

 

start asking your buddies for a torque wrench, you need 220ft-lb, i had to ask a few people before i could find one that went up that high. the tools can be had on ebay, there are two styles, i have both but i like the handle style better, it's just easier to use that 2 ratchets. If you have a local honda shop they might have the tool as well, and may even let you borrow it.

 

Thanks for the replies, they were very helpful.

I did gather all the necessary tools including the torque wrenches, breaker bars, and the 50mm hex tool before I started the project. The powerbuilt hex tool only cost $15 on Amazon. But for good measure, I picked up a propane torch from home depot on my way home today. I'll have to wait until this weekend to work on the pulley when my buddies come over. Stay tuned for a story involving a couple of guys with a 6 ft pipe, a torch, and beer....

 

You'll need two breaker bars.

 

NEVER NEVER NEVER use a torch on an S2000 crank pulley bolt unless you want serious damage to ensue. Heat will help with rust, but I assure you 100% rust is not your problem.

It's just great breakaway torque. I recommend 3/4 drive for loosening this bolt, just like the axle nut. The breakaway torque is even higher on the crank pulley. Easily over 300 ft-lbs.

To tighten, 1/2 drive torque wrench and factory spec is the way to go.

 

that much heat on the pulley can cause fatigue and can cause that pulley to break when you re-torque. not only that but there are rubber seals that will not tolerate that kind f heat

 

Thanks for the warning. I will make sure to not over do it. I figured that it will be easier to remove if I warm up the bolt a little since the car is just sitting out in the cold weather. I will return the torch and get a heat gun instead. It won't be as fun to not play with fire, but I guess it'll be safer for the car and the boys.

 

you won't need any heat, just get a long breaker bar. i use my jack handle and slip it over my ratchet