I am going to be replacing all the alignment hardware on my S (well, bolts and nuts). This would be the opportune time to replace bushings, but I don't know how to determine if they need replacing. Can someone provide things I should check for in a visual inspection? I can see my compliance bushings are cracking. Should I try to twist and move the control arms by hand to test the play?

I'd rather not replace them because the labor involved is ten fold that of just replacing the hardware since I don't have to remove control arms, but I will if need be.

 

if your s2000 is nearly 10 years old, and you have slalomed/tracked yours, i'd replace the suspension bushings since all the parts will be out anyway. It is a time consuming job. For the same money as hiring it out, buy yourself a standing 12 ton bushing press- i got mine for about $120 from princess auto(canadian version of harbour freight)- and do it yourself.

I speak from experience as i am currently replacing ALL suspension bushings on my 2000 SiR. I have to admit though, that the bushings are in good condition. I have slalomed the car for 7-8 years. I'm just upgrading to hardrace bushings for slalom. Check your ball joints (upper and lower) as well and re-grease them too. Oh yeah, use plenty of silver antiseize when you put the bolts back in place. And if any of your bolt's threads are in rough shape, then purchase new OEM bolts. Don't go to your hardware store and cheap out with grade 8.8 hardware. I went with honda stuff. Look for 10.9 metric hardware at least for strength if you must.

compliance bushings are easy to check on my civic- just look for severe cracking in the rubber.

good luck.

darcy

 

Why are you replacing alignment hardware?
You're talking about the bolts & cams right?
Also the rear tracking rods?
When I replaced the lower arm bushings those bolts were not worn, just completely rusted.
I reused the few I was able to get out, with new OEM (locking)nuts.
Both compliance bushings were torn, the other ones were ok-isch.
The compliance bushings were damaged by trying to turn the alignment bolt, with a seized bolt you just rip the bushing.

To test the bushings I guess you need to pop the lower ball joint and disconnect the shock.
Then get the knuckle & caliper out of the way enough to move the lower arm upwards or downwards with the adjustment bolt tight.
Its way easier with the control arm off the car, clamp the inner bushing in a vice and move the arm.
You'll have more room to move & look for cracks.

Btw.. just a (bench)press is not enough to remove & install the bushings.
You need to make the proper pressing bushings and stands.
This is the front lower arm, you'll need a press with plenty of stroke & lots of room.

I could not agree more about using anti sieze compound: you can not use too much on those bolts.
(don't put it on the threads though - the locking nut will not work properly)

 

Car is over 11 years old now! Never been tracked. I'm replacing bolts + nuts (Honda OEM.. all the hardware isn't that expensive.. should be able to reuse the independent cams correct?) because they are rusted/seized to the point where the alignment shop couldn't dial in the suspension due to limited range in the hardware.. rear camber and toe were adjusted as far as the hardware would allow, but they are out of spec enough that I'm eating through tires like crazy (only got 5k on last years star specs). I thank Connecticut winters. I put this off a year but I need to get it done now Thanks for the info on testing the bushings.

 

99.9% the bolts are "one" with the inner sleeve of the bushings.
Lots of posts about this in the UK section.
IOW: you won't get them out the normal way.
The limited range the alignment shop found is the flex in the rubber.
By turning the bolt, you turn the inner sleeve and flex / tear the rubber.
You shoud be able to turn the alignment bolt 360° and see the arm move in/out.

 

 

It will be worth it.
A pre-load free UK-spec alignment
Your car will handle like new... better than new!

Spoon and (IIRC) Mugen have ALL the lower arm bushings you'll need.