Crab Rangoon

My car had theft/vandalism that wound up leaving some chaos under the hood. Long story short, the car was missing the secondary air injection pump solenoid, which wound up shorting out some SAI bits in the ECU. This means I'm not even able to utilize the Izze Engineering air pump simulator kit (though Caleb was EXTREMELY HELPFUL with all of this!), and all of my SAI parts test to function properly anyway. It sounds like the only option I have to keep the CEL gone is to replace my ECU, but before I find and order a used part I wanted to know if I need to have the matching ignition and key to go with it, or will my originals work fine with the replacement ECU?

Thanks in advance, this whole ordeal has been both a headache and a nightmare, I just can't wait to have the code finally cleared so I may get inspected and stop worrying about getting pulled over

Unbr3akable

I'm not an expert when it comes to swapping ECU's but I think you can just take the car to Honda, have the ECU swapped, and then have them re-program the immobilizer for your current key? Someone else confirm this. In this case, all you need is an ECU.

Sorry for the trouble Randy, this type of failure is very rare but it does happen to a select few (you'd be the 3rd customer, of the many, with this issue)

For those interested, the failure is in the ECU circuitry that controls the red OEM wire (Plug 32P, Pin #2), which then drives the secondary air injection vacuum solenoid. The solenoid opens when the red OEM wire drops from battery voltage to ground (i.e. when the air pump is running), which then in turn opens the air injection valve. When the circuitry controlling this wire fails, it never drops to ground, the valve never opens, and you through CEL P0411 "Incorrect Flow". The only fix is to swap the ECU or tear apart the ECU, diagnose the circuitry, and fix the circuit (doable for the very few). No "simulator" can compensate for a faulty ECU.

What and why does it fail? My best guess is it's a blown transistor or trace from accidentally shorting the wire.

Caleb

Pinky

Long as you can get the car to the dealer to get the computer hooked up to the NEW ECU that's all you need.

Sad to hear about your car. Hope I never have to go through that.

They should charge you between 60-80 bucks to program.

Crab Rangoon

Thanks for both of you chiming in!

So I need to take my car and the replacement ECU to the dealer to get this done? Or do I just take both ECU's to them?
I have multiple cars, so it's no problem to take both ECU units in while leaving the car at home

Thanks again!

chris_barry

They need a car there to plug the ECU's in for the programming process.

Pinky

Just the car and the NEW ECU.(replacement one)