Rough idle on warm starts...
Originally posted by heffergm
UPDATE:
(which, by the way, caused the radio to lose power... be warned, in case you don't have your code) for 30 seconds, then re-inserted it, effectively resetting the ECU.
UPDATE:
(which, by the way, caused the radio to lose power... be warned, in case you don't have your code) for 30 seconds, then re-inserted it, effectively resetting the ECU.
Anyway, I hope this works out for you.
Dirty fuel injectors can cause this problem. Dirty injectors can cause the injector not to close fully causing fuel to drip into the cylinder. If the car feels flooded when starting then this may be the problem. Take your car in for a fuel injector cleaning.
I answered another post here tonight somewhat related. The "Idle Relearn" basically rebalances to fuel trims in OBD-II. It will not work in all areas of the country (i.e. high altitude). 99% of the time there is no need to re-learn as the car will function fine as it is racking up its baseline long term fuel trim data points. But if there is a major change in environment (i.e. temp. or barometric pressure) then the lack of a LTFT baseline can be an issue.
Utah
Utah
Originally posted by heffergm
UPDATE:
So, I was perusing a copy of the Helms manual I got ahold of, and worked my way to the Idle Control section.
Lo-and-behold, there's an interesting note about performing what they call the "Idle Learn Procedure", which should basically be done any time the ECU is reset.
So, what I proceeded to do was pull the Backup fuse (which, by the way, caused the radio to lose power... be warned, in case you don't have your code) for 30 seconds, then re-inserted it, effectively resetting the ECU.
I then proceeded to carry out the Idle Learn Procedure:
1)Start car, and hold RPMs at 3000 until the fan kicks on
2)Let the car idle for 5 minutes, ensuring that the throttle is completely closed and that there are no electrical accessories (fan, AC, etc) on.
3)Turn off car.
After this rather peculiar exercise, I restarted the car and found that it idled completely fine. The RPMs also didn't drop too low when revving the motor and letting the RPMs fall as they did prior to this.
I'll report back after I've had a chance to drive the car some more, but I'd say it's worthwhile to try if you've been having problems (especially if you've had your ECU reset, either on purpose or just by disconnecting the battery, and DIDN'T do this procedure afterwards).
Oh... I also whacked the MAP sensor for good luck
UPDATE:
So, I was perusing a copy of the Helms manual I got ahold of, and worked my way to the Idle Control section.
Lo-and-behold, there's an interesting note about performing what they call the "Idle Learn Procedure", which should basically be done any time the ECU is reset.
So, what I proceeded to do was pull the Backup fuse (which, by the way, caused the radio to lose power... be warned, in case you don't have your code) for 30 seconds, then re-inserted it, effectively resetting the ECU.
I then proceeded to carry out the Idle Learn Procedure:
1)Start car, and hold RPMs at 3000 until the fan kicks on
2)Let the car idle for 5 minutes, ensuring that the throttle is completely closed and that there are no electrical accessories (fan, AC, etc) on.
3)Turn off car.
After this rather peculiar exercise, I restarted the car and found that it idled completely fine. The RPMs also didn't drop too low when revving the motor and letting the RPMs fall as they did prior to this.
I'll report back after I've had a chance to drive the car some more, but I'd say it's worthwhile to try if you've been having problems (especially if you've had your ECU reset, either on purpose or just by disconnecting the battery, and DIDN'T do this procedure afterwards).
Oh... I also whacked the MAP sensor for good luck
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tlogic
Texas - Houston S2000 Owners
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Nov 6, 2009 11:03 AM




