Rusty Beater - How to Fix Rust?
I know this is the wrong forum, but I have a serious question. I have a 1997 Saab 900 SE Turbo 2.0 with 193,000 miles on it. Engine runs like a well oiled machine.
However, the paint on the hood and a few other spots is going to hell. Plus, rust is starting to develop.
What is the best half a** way to fix stop the rust. It costs 500 bucks to repaint it or 1700 for a new hood. I saw this stuff online called Rust Bullet. It looks like amazing stuff and is scientifically tested. Take a look. Let me know your two cents, plus any suggestions you may have.
http://www.stoprust.net
However, the paint on the hood and a few other spots is going to hell. Plus, rust is starting to develop.
What is the best half a** way to fix stop the rust. It costs 500 bucks to repaint it or 1700 for a new hood. I saw this stuff online called Rust Bullet. It looks like amazing stuff and is scientifically tested. Take a look. Let me know your two cents, plus any suggestions you may have.
http://www.stoprust.net
There is stuff called rust killer at Wal-Mart that will react to the rust and coat the suface of the object. When the reaction is done, the rust will turn into a black coat that is if you don't care about the appearance of the car.
Most rust appears as blistered-up sections near a seam, or adjacent to a reinforcement. That's because it forms a crevice which is ideal for trapping moisture. Add some chlorides, and you have the ideal environment for crevice corrosion. If it's blistered up paint, that means that it is rusted completely through the panel.
Ideally, you need to remove all of the rust, repair the affected area, prime, then paint. You also have to eliminate the condition that caused the area to collect moisture in the first place or the problem will come back again.
The "rust bullet" stuff is likely a zinc-rich primer/paint. I'm guessing it probably works well if used properly, but so will most other products "if used properly". For a car with 197,000 miles on it, you've got your money out of it, and you are likely wanting to buy yourself a few years without it appearing to be an eyesore. If that's the case, go for it. If you want to restore the car to mint condition, then I would suggest repairing it "by the book".
Ideally, you need to remove all of the rust, repair the affected area, prime, then paint. You also have to eliminate the condition that caused the area to collect moisture in the first place or the problem will come back again.
The "rust bullet" stuff is likely a zinc-rich primer/paint. I'm guessing it probably works well if used properly, but so will most other products "if used properly". For a car with 197,000 miles on it, you've got your money out of it, and you are likely wanting to buy yourself a few years without it appearing to be an eyesore. If that's the case, go for it. If you want to restore the car to mint condition, then I would suggest repairing it "by the book".
This looks like one of many products out in the market place that have been called "rust reversers". I've used these before and they work moderately well but the rust will come back within a year or so. You can scrape the blistered parts down and use the "anti-rust" material. It's another one of those Phosphoric Acid based chemicals that de-oxidizes metal oxides - it's kinda like pouring Coka Cola onto your car. Once the process is as complete as you can determine it to be, you still need to prime it and paint it.
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