well whats your input?

 

hey guys, this guy is looking for sound advice. three options...

1) in this situation my personal recomendation would be to re-hone the FRM sleeves and use Mahle drop in pistons, F22 9.6:1 87.25mm $695. Yes these are .25mm overbored for the honing you need. This will be your cheapest retail route. And a great set up for boost from Ptuning (ask for Toan). (5-600whp) reliable. this is what i am doing now. Or if you are going to stay N/A, then go hi compression with 12.6:1 same overbore. either way you still need ACL race bearings, Cometic head gasket, and while your at it a new valvetrain. Check the link below for machining and other services. this might help with you decision.

http://www.inlinepro.com/s1/s-3-machining-services.aspx

2) If in fact your cyliders are too messed up for a re-hone then do a full build with ductile iron sleeves. this will alow you to run about 35psi of boost safely. again see the link posted. that should be good for 1000whp. Good tuning of course.

3) Now if your motor is completely trashed and non-rebuildable....then buy a new (used) engine i seen one today here in Nashville for $2500 with XMSN. $200 for shipping. 55k miles on the set up.

Stay with in a budget and dont cut corners it will only cost you more in the long run. Good luck with everything.

 

haha yea i know that is what i have been trying to do i am used to doin ca's sr's ka's mostly 240sx stuff (primitive motors compared to the s) so that is why i am trying to brush up as much as i can before i get to deep into this

 

I have already written in another thread that you should not give advices about things you obviously don't understand. It could be costly for other people.

Back to topic:

The cylinder walls have no sleeves. The FRM is casted within the block. This is also why it isn't possible to redo the FRM layer. There are small fibre of carbon casted inside the alu alloy.

The cylinders can be bored up to 88mm - no problem. I have it already done several times on this engine. Others have done it also.
Honing is reworking only a few hundred millimeters. You have to bore first - then honing.

Of course all pistons in our engine are forged. I never heard of a need for cast pistons for special cylinders. This is myth.

You can use aftermarket pistons. Mahle is a good choice. COntact Wadzii here in this forum. He can get them for us.

 

What did I say that I don't fully understand, and could make it costly for someone? Because I said they can re-do the FRM layer? If you read, I said that is just what I read, I didn't say I have seen it done, or have done it.

Also, I already said the internals are forged, just like you just said, and I also said that the Mahle pistons will work with the FRM sleeves, just like you just did. Yes I obviously don't know what i'm talking about even though you just repeated half of the things I just said.

Smartass.

 

Look here:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=837539&hl=

If the OT in that thread followed your posting he would have looked at his bearings instead of making a compression leak test.
Removing the oil pan and checking the bearings is very costly I would say.

This is also pricey, because bore and hone the block is possible and a lot cheaper than buying a new OEM block.

 

 

you seem like a internet stalker bpapsi, but apparently don't read all of the posts I made. Also, taking off the oil pan and inspecting is free...The OP of that thread didn't give hardly any indication of what it could possibly be, it could have been a number of things, nor did I ever say a spun bearing will cause low compression. A compression test and leakdown test cost more than pulling the oil pan and doing a quick inspection. If you read the ultimate CEL thread, the main thing is there says that if the CEL is blinking, do not start the car or anything because something major is happening. Can you please show me where a sensor can cause a blinking CEL? You can PM me that so we aren't filling up this guys thread full of non sense.

Also like I said in this thread, if there are any scratches or nicks in the cylinder wall that you can actually feel with your fingernail, it is to deep to hone out. I researched this a lot before buying a used shortblock to replace mine with a scorred cylinder a year or so ago. If his cylinders are messed up or have deep scratches and is to deep for a hone, than getting an block is far less costly if you are wanting to keep the FRM sleeves.

So yes if you would like to continue this discussion, shoot me a PM instead of filling up a thread with it.

 

I didn't mean that to be condescending (I realize it may have come off that way), but to say that these questions can be more intelligently answered in that forum if they are not available through an existing search.

 

listen, make sure you get advise from reputable companies like....

1) Science of Speed>>>>they only specialize in the NSX and S2000
2) inline pro
3) E.N.D.Y.N
4) Full Race
5) AFI or Arizona Forced Induction
6) Ptuning (ask for Toan he actually owns an s2000) he would do anything to yours that he wouldnt do to his.

These are in no particular order, and they all offer something different.