"special tool" needed to remove HUB
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Since the boot on the B/J was ripped, there's a chance that grease had escaped, while contaminants/sand/grit/dust etc may have entered. In a few thousand miles, you may easily develop a rattle, a squeak, or a knock in that B/J.
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Kirpich,Sep 29 2008, 06:24 PM
Since the boot on the B/J was ripped, there's a chance that grease had escaped, while contaminants/sand/grit/dust etc may have entered. In a few thousand miles, you may easily develop a rattle, a squeak, or a knock in that B/J.
this is getting better by the moment.
how do i go about cleaning the ball joint now? i think a new cover is only $5 per from the dealer, but i need a special tool or something to install it?
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From: St. Louis
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Sep 20 2008, 03:29 AM
As mentioned in the Helms, you need new wheel bearings too.
The bearings get destroyed taking the hub out of the knuckle to replace studs.
Use new axle nuts (you could swap them L/R to get a fresh part of the lip to punch, but it might not be ok)
If this is for the rear, clean and grease (Molycote, or simular) those axle splines and thread and use the updated axle nut torque (220 lbf/ft)
Use a bal joint remover with a wide enough fork and grease the ball joint boot to avoid damage.
Leave the nut on the end of the ball joint thread to protect it from crushing.
Search for ball joint removal / remover.
There are several posts with pics.
The bearings get destroyed taking the hub out of the knuckle to replace studs.
Use new axle nuts (you could swap them L/R to get a fresh part of the lip to punch, but it might not be ok)
If this is for the rear, clean and grease (Molycote, or simular) those axle splines and thread and use the updated axle nut torque (220 lbf/ft)
Use a bal joint remover with a wide enough fork and grease the ball joint boot to avoid damage.
Leave the nut on the end of the ball joint thread to protect it from crushing.
Search for ball joint removal / remover.
There are several posts with pics.
And you can also buy a simialr size nut at the hardware store to use in place of the castle nut so you dont have to worry about crushing the notches on the end, ask me how I know
. You don't need the Honda specail tool listed for removing the ball joints but you will need to have the the new bearing/hub assy. pressed in by a machine shop that works with car parts.
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From: St. Louis
Originally Posted by fusionchickenleg,Sep 30 2008, 12:07 AM
well, shit. my covers are also FUBAR.
this is getting better by the moment.
how do i go about cleaning the ball joint now? i think a new cover is only $5 per from the dealer, but i need a special tool or something to install it?
this is getting better by the moment.
how do i go about cleaning the ball joint now? i think a new cover is only $5 per from the dealer, but i need a special tool or something to install it?
Test for play in the b/j's - if they are really really easy to move around wtih your finger, they are probably toast.
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by SlipAngle79,Sep 29 2008, 10:33 PM
Use a very small flathead to pry the retaining clip/ring off of each cover/boot. Buy the new b/j cover/boot from honda, pack it fairly well with a good high temp molly, and take your time getting the clip/ring over it without dmaging it. The clips open up a little to fit over the cover, but you will need to guide it on with a very small flathead, your special tool in this case.
Test for play in the b/j's - if they are really really easy to move around wtih your finger, they are probably toast.
Test for play in the b/j's - if they are really really easy to move around wtih your finger, they are probably toast.
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A good B/J will be thumb-tight, not free-moving at all, and definitely not loose at all. hold it in your hand, or grab the control arm with your 4 fingers, and move the B/J w/ your thumb. It should be pretty tough to do.