before you start juicing, make sure that aside from having a GOOD dynotune (can't stress this enough)

1) you should use a wet kit, as it's nitrous + fuel, rather than a dry kit which is just nitrous. at least with a wet kit, you won't run as much of a risk of detonation.

2) make sure you have all the nitrous safety equipment (programmed shutoff at X rpm, window switch, etc.)

skip anything and you just made a new hole in your hood (or bottom of the motor)

 

- EXACTLY what RCR S2 said... just have the nitrous shut off before the SC starts building power..

 

It may be hard to see on the diagram, but I have an over-ride switch (modified cruise control switch) that will turn the nitrous back on after the pressure switch shuts it down.

This is just in case you want to spray up to 9k


Also, I never drop the clutch with or without nitrous. Just feather the clutch, once you get moving a bit, then floor it and nitrous kicks in. RPM just shoots straight up to 9K from there.

 

I love your setup, has me thinking now

I disagree with what others have said that its only on for a period of time and that it makes no sense

I really think it improves your low end performance obviously where the SC lacks

Great mod

 

[QUOTE=RCR S2,Aug 7 2004, 09:38 PM]Just limit shut off nitrous when boost starts to build.

 

It might be only about 2 pounds of boost or around 6k RPM. It's an estimate from reading my boost gauge.

The boost switch does not have precise controls. Just a knob that you turn to dial in the cut-off point.

BTW, Nitrous down low helps tremendously. SC does not make power or torque down low. That's why turbos are generally faster and can break into 12's. With nitrous, it gives you the kick of a turbo down low (even better than turbos) and still have higher top end and not have to worry about heat, maintenance, and drivability issues that are associated with turbos. You use it only when you REALLY need it. Doesn't stress out your engine otherwise. See HP/torque curve when nitrous kicks in and over-lay it against the numbers posted by ultimate racing.

I agree, if you spray all the way from low rpm to redline line, you'll be making much more power.

My estimates:
Spray down low only -- mid to high 12's
Spary all the way to redline -- low 12's

The problem with spraying all the way up is not only that it makes too much power than I would like to see on stock internals, but becuase of the Vortech FMU, the nitrous/Fuel ratio becomes extremely rich due to the linear increase in fuel pressure over the RPM band. Wet kits are designed for stock and constant fuel pressure. You need to get an AEM EMS system and get rid of the FMU before you can spray all the way up without affecting the nitrous/fuel ratio.

I posted this before, but here's a plot of my car with nitrous assisted boost in the low RPM. Data taken by PDA Dyno.



I did a 13.1@114.8MPH with no launch and soft shifting. You can see how slow my shifts were from the RPM graphs.

Without nitrous (using the same tool), I ran 13.5@109MPH.

So it definately does helps. (for an accuracy gauge, I ran 13.46@108mph last friday at the track without nitrous and a 2.2sec 60ft time.)