Benson did the sleeving.

I have to car running, idling etc reliably and smoothly. Getting the car to start when cold and warm perfect every time was a pain. Then trying to do it again with the A/C on.

At this point I am doing some fine tuning. After reviewing a log that I took at full throttle I see that the car spikes at boost when it first gets to full boost and then boost falls off about 1 psi. So the next step is to continue the fine tuning by taking logs whenever I drive somewhere, and to mess with my boost controller to make boost more consistant and to raise boost up to 20 psi or so.

Once I do that, and I feel comfortable with the fuel tune(in boost) then I will take it to the dyno. I'm in no hurry to do that however, I just like having a car that runs reliably and is fun to drive. I am just now starting to enjoy it more as I am getting used to the super touchy clutch setup and I am able to drive more agressively.

Chris

 

I have been monitoring your personal website, Chris, and noticed that you posted your AF mappings. Looks like you have mapped all the way to 30 psi. What is the highest psi that you have run? And how do you contact Benson / and where is Benson located?

Thanks!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cjb80
[B]Send your car to Mike Simon he'll hook you up.

 

I am a little confused by your question.

The bottom end is considered the short block, which is where the cylinders are. That includes the sleeving, pistons, rods, and maybe head studs are included in there too.

That's my ignition map actually, not my fuel. I wanted to show Ultimate Lurker a copy of what I was doing with my ignition. The reason why it goes to 32 psi (it actually only goes to 28.xx now) is because I have a 3 bar map sensor wired in to the car, so basically everything in the car supports me going up to that much boost.... well, except for the fuel octane, and perhaps the drivetrain.

Chris

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cjb80
[B]I am a little confused by your question.

 

No, the crank is fine in stock form. There is a trick or two with the crank bearings which is something that Mike Simon has done and will do on other people's motors.

Chris

 

...chiming in on this thread a bit late, but maybe it will help out someone else some day.

The reason the aftermarket forged pistons scuffed so badly is because of the FRM liners. Aluminum on aluminum is a horrible tribological system. In a parent metal aluminum bore (meaning FRM or a hypereutectic aluminum), you have only a few choices: chrome plate the bore, nikasil plate it, or iron plate the piston skirts.

Aluminum rubbing on aluminum, even with the supporting matrix of carbon fiber (FRM) or silicon particles (hypereutectic) wants to join and become one...it galls. I'm pretty sure the OEM pistons are iron plated. If someone has a stock, reasonably unmolested piston handy, try putting a strong magnet to the skirt, or a flake off of a larger magnet. I bet it will stick (I recall this being the case on H22A pistons). There are other piston coating materials, like iron phosphate, but I don't know if anyone uses that, or if it is magnetic.

Hope that helps someone