Switched to Castrol Edge
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Originally Posted by rob-2,Oct 26 2009, 11:27 AM
If you were in the oil business, which some of my friends are, you'd roll your eyes at 'brands' of oil.
Even basic motor oil is leaps and bounds beyond what you would have bought 10-15 years ago. The additives they put in both regular and syn oil are amazing and really work.
Chemical engineer friend of mine changes his oil once a year, tops up his Acura Legend oil when needed and has over 200K on the original motor. He drives about 15K/year. His co-worker does the same thing. They put in whatever is cheapest and run the cheapest filters. They laugh when I asked them about which brands are better and proceeded to enlighten me. I consider them experts.
What a lot of this comes down to is marketing. Yes, some oils perform better in lab tests and no I'm not suggesting you change your oil once a year. However don't assume there is a huge difference between oils. Long term wear on a motor has many factors, one being oil.
Of course we like/love/obsess over these cars, some more then others. The brand of oil you choose will almost have zero impact on the life of your car - you'd be fine driving honda branded oil or ANY properly spec'd oil the dealer put in your car. Provided of course you change it at the set intervals. 30K on the same oil will have down sides.
So let's not confuse ourselves with grand notions that one oil is heads above the rest. In marketing ciricles that's call brand loyalty. I favor Mobil 1 but that doesn't mean the rest are crap. I've just always run mobil, never had a problem and don't see a reason for switching. I've even run their extended life good to 15K syn oil in the TL we had. Car ran great. Smogged well under the states average rating and didn't burn more then 1qt in 15K. So it works.
A lot of the talks about oil seem to be centered around protecting the motor's life. Proper break in will go further to preserving your motor as will being gentle with the car.
No matter how 'good' your oil is, if you race/track/drive hard the life is shortened. Any additional protection you receive from 'improved' blends will be minimal - of course their are exceptions to everything.
Even basic motor oil is leaps and bounds beyond what you would have bought 10-15 years ago. The additives they put in both regular and syn oil are amazing and really work.
Chemical engineer friend of mine changes his oil once a year, tops up his Acura Legend oil when needed and has over 200K on the original motor. He drives about 15K/year. His co-worker does the same thing. They put in whatever is cheapest and run the cheapest filters. They laugh when I asked them about which brands are better and proceeded to enlighten me. I consider them experts.
What a lot of this comes down to is marketing. Yes, some oils perform better in lab tests and no I'm not suggesting you change your oil once a year. However don't assume there is a huge difference between oils. Long term wear on a motor has many factors, one being oil.
Of course we like/love/obsess over these cars, some more then others. The brand of oil you choose will almost have zero impact on the life of your car - you'd be fine driving honda branded oil or ANY properly spec'd oil the dealer put in your car. Provided of course you change it at the set intervals. 30K on the same oil will have down sides.
So let's not confuse ourselves with grand notions that one oil is heads above the rest. In marketing ciricles that's call brand loyalty. I favor Mobil 1 but that doesn't mean the rest are crap. I've just always run mobil, never had a problem and don't see a reason for switching. I've even run their extended life good to 15K syn oil in the TL we had. Car ran great. Smogged well under the states average rating and didn't burn more then 1qt in 15K. So it works.
A lot of the talks about oil seem to be centered around protecting the motor's life. Proper break in will go further to preserving your motor as will being gentle with the car.
No matter how 'good' your oil is, if you race/track/drive hard the life is shortened. Any additional protection you receive from 'improved' blends will be minimal - of course their are exceptions to everything.
In all seriousness I think he is right about the oils, as for filters maybe there is more of a difference I am still looking for one of those nifty oil filters that you could by at J.C Whitney that used a roll of toilet paper for filter element. 
Just for good measure I have used synthetic oils in my Honda's for 10 years now and have had no oil related problems.Waiting for the flames
Troy
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
I'm sure that with regular driving, the engine would go to 200k with regular oil or with oil that costs $50 million per bottle or whatever you guys are paying.
You really think that driving normally around town requires all the chemical engineering and marketing that you guys are paying for?
Are most of you even going to keep the car for 800k miles or something? Most people sell within the first 100k.
with the money you guys spend on oil that costs $8-$20 a quart...you could have bought a whole another motor for your "peace of mind".
Not to mention the costs for the UOA that everyone's OBSESSED with.
It's freaking oil.
Notice that people who use regular oil and people who use $20/qt oil all say the same thing: "I've been using brandX for 18 billion years...my car has 500 zillion miles on it and it runs GREAT".
It's mostly because...:drumroll:...it's freaking just oil.
Especially if you're never tracking the car or doing anything with it. Save money for strippers, clothes, shoes, going out...things that matter.
You really think that driving normally around town requires all the chemical engineering and marketing that you guys are paying for?
Are most of you even going to keep the car for 800k miles or something? Most people sell within the first 100k.
with the money you guys spend on oil that costs $8-$20 a quart...you could have bought a whole another motor for your "peace of mind".
Not to mention the costs for the UOA that everyone's OBSESSED with.
It's freaking oil.
Notice that people who use regular oil and people who use $20/qt oil all say the same thing: "I've been using brandX for 18 billion years...my car has 500 zillion miles on it and it runs GREAT".
It's mostly because...:drumroll:...it's freaking just oil.
Especially if you're never tracking the car or doing anything with it. Save money for strippers, clothes, shoes, going out...things that matter.
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Originally Posted by GregFarz78,Oct 26 2009, 09:40 AM
I never said I could "feel" the difference, but the engine is noticablely smoother sounding I don't know what oil was in it before but I will be doing an analysis at my next oil change and post my results.
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Originally Posted by B serious,Oct 26 2009, 11:49 PM
I'm sure that with regular driving, the engine would go to 200k with regular oil or with oil that costs $50 million per bottle or whatever you guys are paying.
You really think that driving normally around town requires all the chemical engineering and marketing that you guys are paying for?
Are most of you even going to keep the car for 800k miles or something? Most people sell within the first 100k.
with the money you guys spend on oil that costs $8-$20 a quart...you could have bought a whole another motor for your "peace of mind".
Not to mention the costs for the UOA that everyone's OBSESSED with.
It's freaking oil.
Notice that people who use regular oil and people who use $20/qt oil all say the same thing: "I've been using brandX for 18 billion years...my car has 500 zillion miles on it and it runs GREAT".
It's mostly because...:drumroll:...it's freaking just oil.
Especially if you're never tracking the car or doing anything with it. Save money for strippers, clothes, shoes, going out...things that matter.
You really think that driving normally around town requires all the chemical engineering and marketing that you guys are paying for?
Are most of you even going to keep the car for 800k miles or something? Most people sell within the first 100k.
with the money you guys spend on oil that costs $8-$20 a quart...you could have bought a whole another motor for your "peace of mind".
Not to mention the costs for the UOA that everyone's OBSESSED with.
It's freaking oil.
Notice that people who use regular oil and people who use $20/qt oil all say the same thing: "I've been using brandX for 18 billion years...my car has 500 zillion miles on it and it runs GREAT".
It's mostly because...:drumroll:...it's freaking just oil.
Especially if you're never tracking the car or doing anything with it. Save money for strippers, clothes, shoes, going out...things that matter.
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,953
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From: 17 ft below sea level.
Redline 0W-30 goes for US $10,95 / quart.
Amsoil SSO 0W-30 goes for US$ 10,50 / quart.
I'm sure one could get a better deal, buying a case.
All UOA's of xxW-30 oils I have seen used in F20's/F22's showed they sheared down into the 20 weight range, within 3k miles.
So, if oil=oil, why not get a 20 weight to begin with?
It doesn't matter, its just oil, isn't it?
Oh wait.. if I drive the car "hard" then I can't.. right?
So.. oil=/oil?
Btw.. don't think, not even for a moment, that "driving hard" on the street is anything like tracking/racing a car.
I think that 75% of S2k owners think they drive the car "hard".
Sure you do
The whole discussion about 0/5/10W is IMO settled by looking in your owners manual.
What does it state: if the outside temps drop, get a 5W.
I personally can't see this any other way than: thinner oils are better during a cold start.
Some probably think that 30C isn't cold, well.. it is for an engine.
Compared to operating temp.
Finding a dino 0W-30 is as far as I know impossible.
So I'm "stuck" using a syn.
Not that I mind at all, syn oil is known, also by experts, to be able to stand heat better and for longer, it is more shear stable and does not leave deposits.
Lately I've seen some pics of valve trains over on BITOG.
All engines with lots of miles, no problems whatsoever, dino use all its life and.. all with varnish.
Now.. if you don't mind varnish, be my guest.
Also: do you use dino oil because you change it all the time or do you change it all the time because you use dino oil?
So what's my point?
Non really.
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Originally Posted by roy365,Oct 27 2009, 10:00 AM
Geesh....the folks that complained about the OP's post are now the ones turning this into a pissing match royale.
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Not that I mind at all, syn oil is known, also by experts, to be able to stand heat better and for longer, it is more shear stable and does not leave deposits.
How long do you keep your car? That's all that matters. If you keep it 5 years and 100K miles then any oil and even indifferent oil change intervals are sufficient. Keep the oil full, run any oil you want and it'll last long enough. As for varnish? Who cares? When I trade the car in, it's someone else's problem. Yours, if you buy my hand-me-downs.
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 278
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From: Portland, OR
Oil level is way more important than oil brand. I learned to check my oil religiously due to that GD H22A4 that just drank the stuff. I check mine a coupla times a week now and am surprised when the level is the same. Love this car....
Oil changes at the dealer cost about as much as they do at Jiffy Lube, so you may as well just go there. Get an OEM filter and they'll usually do a rough inspection. Just don't OK any repairs and you should be set.
Oil changes at the dealer cost about as much as they do at Jiffy Lube, so you may as well just go there. Get an OEM filter and they'll usually do a rough inspection. Just don't OK any repairs and you should be set.
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