Thanks to this forum
I have had the problem (though it was never a really big problem) where at idle the car would not be very smooth. If you blipped the throttle, when it returned to idle, it would actually dip down to maybe 300 RPM, and nearly stall.
It also did the jumping bit pretty often.
I read in the FAQs that some carbuerator cleaner in the Throttle Body did the trick.
Well I went and bought a can of STP Throttle Body cleaner instead... sprayed it in, cleaned it with a clean soft rag. And changed the oil too (I was a bit overdue.)
At first it was a bit slow to start, but after that... WOW, its like new now! Idle is great, I dont have to give it as much gas to accelerate from a stop (it would want to stall before).
Its a great huge difference! Next weekend is synthetic oil in the tranny and gears.
Thanks guys!
It also did the jumping bit pretty often.
I read in the FAQs that some carbuerator cleaner in the Throttle Body did the trick.
Well I went and bought a can of STP Throttle Body cleaner instead... sprayed it in, cleaned it with a clean soft rag. And changed the oil too (I was a bit overdue.)
At first it was a bit slow to start, but after that... WOW, its like new now! Idle is great, I dont have to give it as much gas to accelerate from a stop (it would want to stall before).
Its a great huge difference! Next weekend is synthetic oil in the tranny and gears.
Thanks guys!
<sigh> Your car was "slow" to start. In other words, you probably almost hydrolocked your engine. Unfortunately, this doesn't really "fix" the problem, as the underlying problem has either to do with the map sensor or the ECU. Many people also dont realize that in cleaning the TB they also inadvertently may jostle the map sensor, and clean the IAC motor. IMO cleaning the actual TB really has nothing to do with it. The amount of buildup that would have to occur to completely close off the air flow when the TB closes, would take probably over 100,000 miles to build up.
That said, I must reiterate how dangerous a procedure this can be. It can take as little as 100cc's of fluid to hydrolock our engines. You yourself, sound like you just narrowly missed having that happen. And then instead of an idle that was funky, you'd be searching for a new block.
That said, I must reiterate how dangerous a procedure this can be. It can take as little as 100cc's of fluid to hydrolock our engines. You yourself, sound like you just narrowly missed having that happen. And then instead of an idle that was funky, you'd be searching for a new block.
Originally Posted by s2krev,Mar 7 2006, 08:30 AM
I'm glad you got the results that you did. Good to hear people with success stories.
Originally Posted by zboy,Mar 7 2006, 11:32 AM
The spray involved evaporates incredibly quickly. And I sprayed it in with the valve closed, and considering it is not water, and a flammable liquid, I SERIOUSLY doubt it wuold have hydrolocked anything.
The slow to start (about 1 second hesitation) could have been from the oil change, or it could have been any number of things.
I did not whack the the map, and I did not come up with the idea on my own, it was straight from the FAQs.
I have 36k miles, and it was not completely blocked, only partially, a completely blocked intake would keep the car from idling at all.
Your post sucks.
The slow to start (about 1 second hesitation) could have been from the oil change, or it could have been any number of things.
I did not whack the the map, and I did not come up with the idea on my own, it was straight from the FAQs.
I have 36k miles, and it was not completely blocked, only partially, a completely blocked intake would keep the car from idling at all.
Your post sucks.
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Originally Posted by zboy,Mar 7 2006, 10:32 AM
The spray involved evaporates incredibly quickly. And I sprayed it in with the valve closed, and considering it is not water, and a flammable liquid, I SERIOUSLY doubt it wuold have hydrolocked anything.

I did not whack the the map, and I did not come up with the idea on my own, it was straight from the FAQs.

I have 36k miles, and it was not completely blocked, only partially, a completely blocked intake would keep the car from idling at all.
Your post sucks.
This little flaming comment got your thread locked. Don't let it happen again.
Originally Posted by zboy,Mar 7 2006, 10:40 AM
next time read the entire thread.look, only 6 posts down:
I think you are basically spraying in "carb cleaner", although I'm sure the modern day version is injector safe, etc. It dissolves the crud buildup in the intake tract and flushes it into the combustion chamber where it's burnt up. This product also has a tendency to lubricate things like valve seals and clean the tops of the valves as well.
As you are spraying it in, did you notice that the engine nearly dies and you had to stop or slow down once in a while so the engine could "catch up"? It was probably not a bad thing to clean out the intake, but it may very well be this "choking" of the engine is what forced it to learn how to deal with trying to pick up the idle and prevent it from going so low. This is the same thing that happens when the intake air temps get really hot like in the summer time. On most cars, if left alone, the car will eventually "learn" and deal with it. You just made it learn faster and cleaned out the top end while at it.
As you are spraying it in, did you notice that the engine nearly dies and you had to stop or slow down once in a while so the engine could "catch up"? It was probably not a bad thing to clean out the intake, but it may very well be this "choking" of the engine is what forced it to learn how to deal with trying to pick up the idle and prevent it from going so low. This is the same thing that happens when the intake air temps get really hot like in the summer time. On most cars, if left alone, the car will eventually "learn" and deal with it. You just made it learn faster and cleaned out the top end while at it.
If you guys want to safely clean your throttle body...remove it, and clean it with brake cleaner. Harsh chemicals are in no way good for the emission controls, or the TB surface. Brake cleaner is very mild compared to carb cleaner.
if you do it wrong, and get to much cleaner in the intake, you can hydro-lock the engine and bend/break a connecting rod. (I've seen it happen)
read next time. think before you act, AND before you post. flaming won't be tolerated.
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