S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Thanks to this forum

Thread Tools
 
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 05:44 AM
  #1  
zboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Default Thanks to this forum

I have had the problem (though it was never a really big problem) where at idle the car would not be very smooth. If you blipped the throttle, when it returned to idle, it would actually dip down to maybe 300 RPM, and nearly stall.

It also did the jumping bit pretty often.

I read in the FAQs that some carbuerator cleaner in the Throttle Body did the trick.

Well I went and bought a can of STP Throttle Body cleaner instead... sprayed it in, cleaned it with a clean soft rag. And changed the oil too (I was a bit overdue.)

At first it was a bit slow to start, but after that... WOW, its like new now! Idle is great, I dont have to give it as much gas to accelerate from a stop (it would want to stall before).

Its a great huge difference! Next weekend is synthetic oil in the tranny and gears.

Thanks guys!
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 06:15 AM
  #2  
Wisconsin S2k's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 9,792
Likes: 5
From: Milwaukee Area
Default

<sigh> Your car was "slow" to start. In other words, you probably almost hydrolocked your engine. Unfortunately, this doesn't really "fix" the problem, as the underlying problem has either to do with the map sensor or the ECU. Many people also dont realize that in cleaning the TB they also inadvertently may jostle the map sensor, and clean the IAC motor. IMO cleaning the actual TB really has nothing to do with it. The amount of buildup that would have to occur to completely close off the air flow when the TB closes, would take probably over 100,000 miles to build up.


That said, I must reiterate how dangerous a procedure this can be. It can take as little as 100cc's of fluid to hydrolock our engines. You yourself, sound like you just narrowly missed having that happen. And then instead of an idle that was funky, you'd be searching for a new block.
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 07:30 AM
  #3  
WalkingDrunken's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 757
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, Florida
Default

I'm glad you got the results that you did. Good to hear people with success stories.
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 07:32 AM
  #4  
zboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Default

[QUOTE=Wisconsin S2k,Mar 7 2006, 07:15 AM] <sigh>
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 07:35 AM
  #5  
zboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by s2krev,Mar 7 2006, 08:30 AM
I'm glad you got the results that you did. Good to hear people with success stories.
Thanks, like I said, ot wasnt a big problem originally, but it is nice having it run smoother at idle.
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 07:40 AM
  #6  
zboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Default

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=298415
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:09 AM
  #7  
darkfx's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,095
Likes: 0
From: its back!
Default

Originally Posted by zboy,Mar 7 2006, 11:32 AM
The spray involved evaporates incredibly quickly. And I sprayed it in with the valve closed, and considering it is not water, and a flammable liquid, I SERIOUSLY doubt it wuold have hydrolocked anything.


The slow to start (about 1 second hesitation) could have been from the oil change, or it could have been any number of things.

I did not whack the the map, and I did not come up with the idea on my own, it was straight from the FAQs.

I have 36k miles, and it was not completely blocked, only partially, a completely blocked intake would keep the car from idling at all.

Your post sucks.
good points!
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:21 AM
  #8  
Wisconsin S2k's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 9,792
Likes: 5
From: Milwaukee Area
Default

Originally Posted by zboy,Mar 7 2006, 10:32 AM
The spray involved evaporates incredibly quickly. And I sprayed it in with the valve closed, and considering it is not water, and a flammable liquid, I SERIOUSLY doubt it wuold have hydrolocked anything.

hydrolocking doesn't just mean water. it's a liquid that is not compressible, just like water. hence the reason it can cause hydrolock.

I did not whack the the map, and I did not come up with the idea on my own, it was straight from the FAQs.
you should have read the entire thread in the FAQ then.

I have 36k miles, and it was not completely blocked, only partially, a completely blocked intake would keep the car from idling at all.
actually, no it wouldn't. the IAC motor would open the TB once it detected no air was coming in. and again, look at the TB. yes it's possible for crud to buildup and eventually block off the air from entering once the TB closes, however, with the amount you'd need to do that, you'd better be driving over 100,000 miles on your car. and if not, then you may have a greater issue at hand.

Your post sucks.
And this won't be tolerated. Don't be pissed just because someone offers countering information and advice to what you did. Would you rather someone listen to your advice without having read the warnings (apparently as you did, since you must not have read the entire thread in the FAQ) and then hydrolock their engine because they followed YOUR lead?

This little flaming comment got your thread locked. Don't let it happen again.
Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #9  
Wisconsin S2k's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 9,792
Likes: 5
From: Milwaukee Area
Default

Originally Posted by zboy,Mar 7 2006, 10:40 AM
next time read the entire thread.

look, only 6 posts down:

I think you are basically spraying in "carb cleaner", although I'm sure the modern day version is injector safe, etc. It dissolves the crud buildup in the intake tract and flushes it into the combustion chamber where it's burnt up. This product also has a tendency to lubricate things like valve seals and clean the tops of the valves as well.
As you are spraying it in, did you notice that the engine nearly dies and you had to stop or slow down once in a while so the engine could "catch up"? It was probably not a bad thing to clean out the intake, but it may very well be this "choking" of the engine is what forced it to learn how to deal with trying to pick up the idle and prevent it from going so low. This is the same thing that happens when the intake air temps get really hot like in the summer time. On most cars, if left alone, the car will eventually "learn" and deal with it. You just made it learn faster and cleaned out the top end while at it.
more:
If you guys want to safely clean your throttle body...remove it, and clean it with brake cleaner. Harsh chemicals are in no way good for the emission controls, or the TB surface. Brake cleaner is very mild compared to carb cleaner.
and finally:
if you do it wrong, and get to much cleaner in the intake, you can hydro-lock the engine and bend/break a connecting rod. (I've seen it happen)

read next time. think before you act, AND before you post. flaming won't be tolerated.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Daremo
S2000 Under The Hood
11
Apr 8, 2016 10:46 AM
AP1Patrick
S2000 Under The Hood
4
Nov 12, 2014 07:39 AM
bumhunta
S2000 Under The Hood
10
Jul 5, 2012 08:53 PM
stwokay
S2000 Under The Hood
5
Mar 10, 2006 04:27 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:28 PM.