S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Tranny Problem

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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 01:31 PM
  #11  
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From: Temple City
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what are you doing in korea if you don't mind me asking. i remember u used to drive to streets of so cali.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 04:46 PM
  #12  
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From: Seoul
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Originally Posted by jyeung528,Oct 1 2004, 06:31 AM
what are you doing in korea if you don't mind me asking. i remember u used to drive to streets of so cali.
heh? perhaps you confused with other person...
because I'm from upstate NY.
I wish I was in so cali

I'm in Korea because All koreans has to go to mendetory Army duty for 2 years



Thank you guys for all these help
I will try with clutch fluid first(or master cylinder)
I have strong feeling that it's the clutch fluid because the problem only happens about 5-10min AFTER driving car and goes away after 30 min of driving.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 08:27 PM
  #13  
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The behavior you described in your original post matches closely to what I have experienced. I bought my car (MY00) at 25k miles and it had the original Honda MTF. Shifting was okay, but it was a bit notchy.
  • changed to Redline MTL, worked great for a while, after 3k miles it was exactly how you describe when cold and after 30 minutes of warming.
  • switched to Redline MT-90, same behavior when cold right after change, but it shifted really well after 30 minutes of warming.
  • recently changed to the GM Synchromesh Friction Modified, shifts amazingly well all the time, even when dead cold. It's only been six days so I'll have to see how it is in the long run. Others report nice shifting even after many thousands of miles.

My clutch fluid was also very dark, it's dark again even after changing it just about 3k miles ago. The brake fluid that I changed at the same time still looks perfect. In both cases lots of clean fluid was pumped through the lines. Maybe it has something to do with the frequency of usage and the distance the clutch cylinder is pushed each time by the pedal. I don't think the brakes see as high of usage in frequency or in distance the pedal travels.

I hope the transmission fluid change to the GMSMFM product solves your problem like it did for my MY00 and others.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 08:58 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Big Ben,Sep 30 2004, 08:35 AM
I took it to the dealer, they tore it apart and discovered that the shaft with 1st and 2nd gears on it needed to be rebuilt. There were several teeth missing and the synchros were destroyed.
The driven teeth or the synchro's clutching teeth?
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 08:59 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Random1,Sep 30 2004, 11:27 PM
The behavior you described in your original post matches closely to what I have experienced. I bought my car (MY00) at 25k miles and it had the original Honda MTF. Shifting was okay, but it was a bit notchy.
  • changed to Redline MTL, worked great for a while, after 3k miles it was exactly how you describe when cold and after 30 minutes of warming.
  • switched to Redline MT-90, same behavior when cold right after change, but it shifted really well after 30 minutes of warming.
  • recently changed to the GM Synchromesh Friction Modified, shifts amazingly well all the time, even when dead cold. It's only been six days so I'll have to see how it is in the long run. Others report nice shifting even after many thousands of miles.

My clutch fluid was also very dark, it's dark again even after changing it just about 3k miles ago. The brake fluid that I changed at the same time still looks perfect. In both cases lots of clean fluid was pumped through the lines. Maybe it has something to do with the frequency of usage and the distance the clutch cylinder is pushed each time by the pedal. I don't think the brakes see as high of usage in frequency or in distance the pedal travels.

I hope the transmission fluid change to the GMSMFM product solves your problem like it did for my MY00 and others.
I think the brakes may operate at a slightly higher temperature than the clutch, though.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 09:47 PM
  #16  
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From: Tucson
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Yes on the brake temp, but I don't think that would influence the fluid in the reservoir. As far as I know the fluid at the caliper does not circulate back to the master cylinder in any way, not unless there is some non intuitive fluid dynamics happening.
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