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Just re-torque the bolt to the proper 33 lbf-ft. It's too loose if you torqued it per your first message. Ignore the change of washer for now but use a fresh one with every oil change. Local Honda includes the washer when I buy the oil filter from them.
I have the same torque wrench. Seems like a good torque wrench to me. I use torque wrenches a lot more when I am working on aluminum because my feel was developed over many years on iron stuff. Personally when I use a torque wrench I feel like the click almost always comes earlier than my brain tells me I should stop. But, I think that is because my brain was trained on iron. For some bolts (head bolts for example) the torque is critical. Others not so much. I just don't want to strip out the block, or transmission, or dif. That is my big fear. So, I use a torque wrench and I trust it. I use the wrench and I care for the wrench as others suggest above.
Not trying to throw a wrench in the post, no pun intended. However, I am seeing different torque settings for both drain plug and filter in the following service manual, section 8-6 and 8-7:
Especially at lower settings, the click can be very, very subtle. Faint. When in doubt, stop. Reset the wrench (back off a few clicks) and start over. When I think I might be at risk of over tightening, I stop and set the torque wrench to a lower setting and then work my way up to the desired setting. For something as low as 29 lb-ft, consider using a smaller torque wrench, although with the right "touch" yours should be OK.
There are many videos on YouTube on how to properly use a torque wrench.
Not trying to throw a wrench in the post, no pun intended. However, I am seeing different torque settings for both drain plug and filter in the following service manual, section 8-6 and 8-7:
If this reference is correct the drain plug should be 29 Ibf-ft and the filter 16 lbf-ft.
Please correct me if this is incorrect.
Thank you!
Your figures on the drain plug are correct.
On the oil filter, go 7/8ths of a turn with the OEM Honda filter using the Honda markings which are fool-proof - after the gasket contacts the base. I like Honda's system and I never had to torque it in place, and I never had a filter come loose. I go one turn on the K&N oil filter which is my second favourite filter with the box end wrench bung/nut on the end of the filter.
Should I throw another wrench in this bickering? What about the fact that the drain plug threads will have motor oil on them? Unless you wait 24 hours to drain the oil then wipe the threads clean, there will ALWAYS be some oil still slowly coming out of the pan meaning the threads will have oil on them. This will change your torque value so if you use a torque wrench on a oily threaded drain plug, you might be over-torquing it lol.
Well, at least we are not discussing what kind/brand of oil is the best, LOL!
You can bypass this entire problem (for the oil pan bolt that is) by using a genuine Fumoto valve so you never have to remove or replace the drain bolt. If you slide a shallow pan under the car ( I use disposable aluminum chafing pans) you don’t even have to get under the S to change the oil. It can all be done from an open hood.
You don’t have to worry about it getting hit by something and leaking. If something hits this in its location enough to cause a leak, you have much bigger problems! I have one on my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee ( I call it Elizabeth Warren- It is white but it says it is a Cherokee) and it is well protected even off road.
This thread reminds me of the never used correct term for a political party. You should say, for example: The Democrat Party NOT the Democratic Party.
