S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Using Torque Wrenches

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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 07:46 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by cosmomiller
Well, at least we are not discussing what kind/brand of oil is the best, LOL!

You can bypass this entire problem (for the oil pan bolt that is) by using a genuine Fumoto valve so you never have to remove or replace the drain bolt. If you slide a shallow pan under the car ( I use disposable aluminum chafing pans) you don’t even have to get under the S to change the oil. It can all be done from an open hood.


Big fan of my Fumoto valve! Been running it for a few years now.

But it only works if you use the best oil... which is super rare dragon fossil oil produced by gnomes in the hills of Scotland.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 07:54 AM
  #32  
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So at this point, my biggest concern is that I've over-torqued it. I haven't touched it since posting this yesterday.

I've read that with a crush washer, you should feel resistance, then a bit less resistance. When I torqued it I felt resistance, a bit less resistance and then more again and that's where I stopped. My concern is that this feels kind of like I stripped it. Should I just leave it until my next oil change to find out if I stripped the oil pan?!

Also a question, why does this even really need to be torqued down so high? 29 lb-ft seems like a lot of torque for something that just holds fluid in. There shouldn't be a lot of pressure on it that would cause it to back out.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 09:21 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTheFurst
So at this point, my biggest concern is that I've over-torqued it. I haven't touched it since posting this yesterday.

I've read that with a crush washer, you should feel resistance, then a bit less resistance. When I torqued it I felt resistance, a bit less resistance and then more again and that's where I stopped. My concern is that this feels kind of like I stripped it. Should I just leave it until my next oil change to find out if I stripped the oil pan?!

Also a question, why does this even really need to be torqued down so high? 29 lb-ft seems like a lot of torque for something that just holds fluid in. There shouldn't be a lot of pressure on it that would cause it to back out.
Just my opinion, you're fine, I would wait until next time you change the oil and find out if you went too far. From the sounds of it it's definitely not UNDER torqued so I wouldn't worry about it coming loose.
I haven't used a torque wrench on my oil drain plugs in the past ten years (normally I don't like subjective evidence or just one person's experience, I'm just putting it out there).
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 09:32 AM
  #34  
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33LB is a very low value for that size fastener.

Its designed to be tightened with lubricated threads. And its designed to be repeatable almost infinite times.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:24 AM
  #35  
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You don’t want the thing to back out and spill your oil. If it is too lightly torqued, the repeated heating and cooling coupled with vibration can back those things out. Just look at the incident record for places like Jiffy Lube.
On the other hand, you don’t want to smite that thing like Thor and his hammer. It is possible to strip the hole the bolt goes in. The kindly and always polite engineers at Honda have determined the value that is safely between the two extremes.

I personally think the above is another argument in favor of a Fumoto. (Do not get the cheap imitation-you want the Japanese made ones)
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 12:16 PM
  #36  
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My 2006 Owner's Manual.
Put a new washer on the drain bolt,
then reinstall the drain bolt.
Tighten the drain bolt to: 33 lbf·ft (45 N·m , 4.6 kgf·m).
But... the 2000-08 Service Manual, published 9/2007, states 29 lbf-ft (39 N-m). Take your choice. I've always used 33 lbf-ft.

-- Chuck

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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 01:14 PM
  #37  
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The german service manual also states 39 Nm - 29 lbf-ft.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 01:46 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTheFurst
So at this point, my biggest concern is that I've over-torqued it. I haven't touched it since posting this yesterday.

I've read that with a crush washer, you should feel resistance, then a bit less resistance. When I torqued it I felt resistance, a bit less resistance and then more again and that's where I stopped. My concern is that this feels kind of like I stripped it. Should I just leave it until my next oil change to find out if I stripped the oil pan?!

Also a question, why does this even really need to be torqued down so high? 29 lb-ft seems like a lot of torque for something that just holds fluid in. There shouldn't be a lot of pressure on it that would cause it to back out.
That torque setting is high enough, you wouldn't usually torque it that tight by hand unless you reefed on it, so you should be safe. If I'm not mistaken Billman did a torque test on the oil pan and it withstood really high torque amounts well over 29 ft lbs. So someone really has to go out of their way to damage the oil pan or tranny drain bolt threads, like using air tools on them.




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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 03:19 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by zeroptzero
That torque setting is high enough, you wouldn't usually torque it that tight by hand unless you reefed on it, so you should be safe. If I'm not mistaken Billman did a torque test on the oil pan and it withstood really high torque amounts well over 29 ft lbs. So someone really has to go out of their way to damage the oil pan or tranny drain bolt threads, like using air tools on them.
I don't recall the oil pan undergoing Billmans' stress test but I do recall he did it for spark plugs. Pretty close to 100 as I remember.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 03:30 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Chuck S
My 2006 Owner's Manual.But... the 2000-08 Service Manual, published 9/2007, states 29 lbf-ft (39 N-m). Take your choice. I've always used 33 lbf-ft.

-- Chuck
Maybe split the difference and get the best of both worlds? Or not, and sleep just fine at night.

I never torque oil drain bolts. This is a simple case of overthinking.
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