I've been thinking about doing this. Looks pretty straight forward and I'm good with a wrench but still makes me nervous messing with things that can ruin an engine


How often should they be adjusted anyway?

 

i was told every 15k milles

 

The original factory recommendation wasn't for 100k miles or so, the recent concern with 2006+ drive by wire S2000's was to check them initially at 15k miles to be sure the exhaust side wasn't overly tight as those motors can run hotter, then 50k miles thereafter. For 2000-2005 every 50k miles will be fine IMO.

The adjustment range for valves is .008-.010" intake side, and .010 - .011 " exhaust side , were you quoting metric sizes in your earlier reply ?

 

The original factory recommendation wasn't for 100k miles or so, the recent concern with 2006+ drive by wire S2000's was to check them initially at 15k miles to be sure the exhaust side wasn't overly tight as those motors can run hotter, then 50k miles thereafter. For 2000-2005 every 50k miles will be fine IMO.

The adjustment range for valves is .008-.010" intake side, and .010 - .011 " exhaust side , were you quoting metric sizes in your earlier reply ?
[/quote]

also ocheck the DIY on robrobinettes site. very detailed great step by step with pictures and manual excerpts. if you have never done a valve adjustment you might as well do it. but also consider the stickies that were mentioned by UTAH. i would start with those then do the valve adjustment. Billman just posted his own tsb for 06 and up. i dont know what year your car is. but look for that thread. i believe he suggests putting ap2 exhaust side to .011. i will be doing my valve adjustment once a season since the car is for autocross only. so during down time i will do it.

 

There is a great valve adjustment DIY on this forum, but there was some confusion on the order of adjustment and engine rotation. If you are a newbie to this procedure definitely follow my info on the markings that exist on the camshaft gears, they will help you get each cylinder lined up properly. After you do it once or twice it becomes more familiar. I posted on page 3 of the DIY thread to correct some misinformation on the order of rotation.

Here is the original thread https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/245...t/page__st__50


Here is my adjustment recommendation reply as posted in that thread:

add a bit more information here to help future owners do this procedure. Just to verify the sequence for the adjustment is cylinders 1,3,4, & 2, in that order. Line up cylinder one at TDC with the two timing marks on the cam chain sprocket lined up with the cylinder head surface, perfectly horizontal with the head surface. The marks on the camshaft gears are to be facing each other dead on.

Then rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees(or cams 90 degrees) to line up cylinder #3. The timing mark on the exhaust camshaft gear should be straight up and the timing mark on the intake gear will be straight down (keep in mind that the engine is cocked on an angle, so you are lining up the marks based on the engine's angled stance.

Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees to line up cylinder #4. The timing mark on the exhaust cam gear will be horizontal facing the passenger side of the engine. The intake cam gear timing mark will be facing the driver side of the engine horizontally.

Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees to line up cylinder #2. The timing mark on the exhaust cam gear will be facing straight down, the timing mark on the intake cam gear will be facing straight up (again based on the stance of the engine angle).

One thing I do between each cylinder adjustment is to spray some engine oil on all cam lobes and the timing chain sprocket prior to rotating the engine to the next cylinder to keep things well lubed as you turn the engine without oil pressure. You will know that you have the cylinder lined up properly when the cam lobes face this direction \ / on each adjustment, to indicated you have them at TDC.

I hope this helps, as it gives amateurs a bit more information to use on the adjustment procedure.

 

I learned long ago on my old Honda Interceptor that it was much easier to just ignore the timing marks and engine rotations, and simply turn crank until the cam lobes were pointing away from the valve, then adjust.

Much easier to not make a mistake that way, much faster as well. It would seem the same technique could be used with the S as well. Seems like the same valve adjustment setup as the Honda bikes of old.

That would seem to eliminate the issue I keep seeing come up with newbies adjusting valves getting the timing marks all wrong, and adjusting valves when they are out of position. So long as valve is fully closed, cam pointed away, you are in the position the timing marks wanted to get you anyway. This seems like a much safer and even faster way to go about the adjustment.

I'd like to know what others think about doing it this way, especially someone like Billman.

 

Yup as I listed you want the intake and exhaust cam lobes in this position: exhaust \ / intake , but most first-timers won't understand that until they do it at least once or twice, hence the notes on the timing marks to get them used to the rotation procedure and avoid improper order. On a side note you probably can't get the feeler gauge into the gap unless the cam lobes are facing this direction: exhaust \ / intake (11 and 1 position)

 

...and don't leave your socket on the crank bolt before you start the car again. make sure you've removed it. check it twice. no, i mean it.

darcy

 

^^ sounds like experience talking. hehe

 

I read Robinette's DIY and kept telling myself over and over and over during the valve adjustment process "dont forget...dont forget... dont forget..." and i completely forgot and had my hand on the start button clutch depressed and went WAITTTTTTTTT.... F^&********* I ALMOST FORGOT!!! haha, luckily I caught myself at the LAST second!

I don't even want to know what starting the car would have sounded like with it still on lol.