only hard part is putting the vc back on such a pain in the ass
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couldnt agree more.
I have been trying to get mine back on for over 2 hours! EVERYTIME I do this I try and remember what is the correct way to get that thing back on. I have no clue why sometimes it just falls on and the rest of the time it is a half inch away. I just dont get that damn thing

 

only hard part is putting the vc back on such a pain in the ass
[/quote]
couldnt agree more.
I have been trying to get mine back on for over 2 hours! EVERYTIME I do this I try and remember what is the correct way to get that thing back on. I have no clue why sometimes it just falls on and the rest of the time it is a half inch away. I just dont get that damn thing
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remove the cam sensor bolt on the driver side of the cover and rotate the sensor downwards 90 degrees , leave the sensor inserted in the hole though. That will make a world of difference, then just put it back to position once the cover is in place. Torque the bolt on the sensor to 7 ft lbs.

You can wiggle it in with some effort without touching the sensor, but I'm always afraid of scratching my valvecover that way, so I just adjust the cam sensor. Remove the wire loom that runs along the firewall as well and tuck it underneath behind the head until the cover is in place then bring it back up, the wire loom gets in the way too.

 

Thanks Joey. I actually found an old post of yours that was the issue. It is and always has been the spark plug tube seals. I could see they were all lined up and still I think "what the hell
I had never before actually tried to move them around a little bit through the top of the valve cover
I always just wiggled it around until it dropped on

 

Oh yeah that can slow you down as well, particularly if they are brand new. Coaxing them over the sharp edge of the metal tubes with our fingers from above helps, a tiny bit of oil on their inside edge can help too.

Glad to hear you got it to work, it can be frustrating at times.

 

Bump, anyone have an answer to this?

 

Just stick the feeler gauge in the gap and see if it is loose or tight. If the cam lobes are in the proper position, and you have a gap, it makes sense that it can be moved by hand slightly. If you didn't have a gap it would be totally tight and that would not be good.

Once the proper sized feeler gauge goes into the gap, you use the drag on the gauge to see if it needs further adjustment. Don't press down on anything. Let the feeler gauge tell you all you need to know, hth.

 

Just stick the feeler gauge in the gap and see if it is loose or tight. If the cam lobes are in the proper position, and you have a gap, it makes sense that it can be moved by hand slightly. If you didn't have a gap it would be totally tight and that would not be good.

Once the proper sized feeler gauge goes into the gap, you use the drag on the gauge to see if it needs further adjustment. Don't press down on anything. Let the feeler gauge tell you all you need to know, hth.
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I understand the concept completely. The issue I'm bringing up is that there is play in the adjustment screw, such that having the screw in the "lower" position or the "upper" position so to speak will yield a different gap measurement. For example, the .008 might fit perfectly with the adjustment screw in the lower position, but once you lift up the screw with your fingers it would feel loose. Hope that clarifies the question

 

I wonder if the misfire will come back, generally speaking I thought valve adjustments didnt cure actual "problems". just more of a fine tune.

 

Just stick the feeler gauge in the gap and see if it is loose or tight. If the cam lobes are in the proper position, and you have a gap, it makes sense that it can be moved by hand slightly. If you didn't have a gap it would be totally tight and that would not be good.

Once the proper sized feeler gauge goes into the gap, you use the drag on the gauge to see if it needs further adjustment. Don't press down on anything. Let the feeler gauge tell you all you need to know, hth.
[/quote]

I understand the concept completely. The issue I'm bringing up is that there is play in the adjustment screw, such that having the screw in the "lower" position or the "upper" position so to speak will yield a different gap measurement. For example, the .008 might fit perfectly with the adjustment screw in the lower position, but once you lift up the screw with your fingers it would feel loose. Hope that clarifies the question
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Maybe I'm not understanding the question but I will try to provide more info if it helps ?.

Gravity causes the screw and locknut assembly to sit all the way down when the engine is shut down. Once you put the appropriate feeler gauge in the gap it should push the assembly all the way upwards, so there is no ability to move it upwards any further.

A properly adjusted valve clearance has the appropriate feeler gauge in the gap with a small amount of drag on it as you move it around within the gap. Pushing down on the screw and locknut assembly at that point would lock up the feeler gauge and it couldn't be moved or properly adjusted.

 

so i did my valve adjustment almost a week ago put about 100 miles on the car since cleared my CEl missfire(s) light. the light has not come back on since. so yeah im gonna say yes the adjustment can cure misfires. but also keep in mind my cel would only come on at a idle.