vtec
What you might try is a simple push button on the steering wheel that puts 12 volts directly to the VTEC solenoid. When you want VTEC, push the button. CAUTION: I have no idea what this will do to your ECU!!!
I have an after market ECU (electromotive TEC III) running everything on my race car and I used to use a toggle switch to turn on the VTEC. Except I kept forgetting that it was on and it would still be in VTEC at idle as I came down off a run. So I started using the computer to click it on, except that I ran into so many issues with programming and relays etc. that I finally settled on a micro switch at the end of the throttle stroke, much like a Nitrous switch. You want more go fast? Just push harder.
But I have found that 3800 is the ABSOLUTE bottom end for using the VTEC. I've done dyno pulls and switched it on as low as 2000 to see what would happen. The car just jumps all over the place until right about 3800-3900. Then it just settles down and flat takes off. When I race, I'm still doing part throttle at those RPM's because of wheel spin, so it's no problem to use the micro switch at the bottom of the pedal stroke. When I finally "hook up" I just keep my foot planted on the floor for the entire 96 or so second run and let the rev limiter deal with things each time I shift.
Just a side note here, if you do figure out how to run VTEC with your computer, you might program in that it cuts off at say 9300 or so. That way, if you do a mechanical over rev, at least the valves will be farther away from the piston and less prone to floating.
And keep the shiny side up.
Jim
I have an after market ECU (electromotive TEC III) running everything on my race car and I used to use a toggle switch to turn on the VTEC. Except I kept forgetting that it was on and it would still be in VTEC at idle as I came down off a run. So I started using the computer to click it on, except that I ran into so many issues with programming and relays etc. that I finally settled on a micro switch at the end of the throttle stroke, much like a Nitrous switch. You want more go fast? Just push harder.
But I have found that 3800 is the ABSOLUTE bottom end for using the VTEC. I've done dyno pulls and switched it on as low as 2000 to see what would happen. The car just jumps all over the place until right about 3800-3900. Then it just settles down and flat takes off. When I race, I'm still doing part throttle at those RPM's because of wheel spin, so it's no problem to use the micro switch at the bottom of the pedal stroke. When I finally "hook up" I just keep my foot planted on the floor for the entire 96 or so second run and let the rev limiter deal with things each time I shift.
Just a side note here, if you do figure out how to run VTEC with your computer, you might program in that it cuts off at say 9300 or so. That way, if you do a mechanical over rev, at least the valves will be farther away from the piston and less prone to floating.
And keep the shiny side up.
Jim
Switching 12V to the solenoid will do the exact same thing that dropping the switchover RPM with a piggyback does = send the PCM into backup. If you power on the solenoid when the PCM doesn't think it should be on it's no RPM over 6k.
i heard ppl were yelling go jump off a bridge too....do your research before just throwing stuff on. make sure you know what it does and how it affects the car. if you have to get a dyno tune then do it and dont be cheap, in the long run it'll cost more. you cant just throw a vtec controller on and set where ever you feel like, theres other things that come in to play. theres the box in the top right corner and if you type in hondata i'm sure there will be results. check it before you buy it just bc "everyone" is telling you to do it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







