S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

what to set my valve clearance at.

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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 08:43 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ES2K
Here's a few items to consider. Valves need to fully seat to prevent burning. Valves need to fully seat to maintain good compression. Loose valves have large gaps, don't burn and seal the combustion chamber during the compression stroke. However, with a tighter gap, the valve lifts off of the valve seat further than with a large gap; sort of like having a slightly higher lift cam lobe. The higher lift adds power (maybe too little to measure) until the lift is so high that the valves don't seat, the engine loses power and subsequently the valves burn. So the issue is finding the sweet gap that maximizes lift without burning valves. Billman has noted a preferred gap for DBW engines to enhance longevity.
Good stuff. Ok, however I have a non DBW (2004), what performance changes would I see if I go from .009 to .008 and .010 to .011? If you'll note the problems I mention in my earlier post these indicate too tight valves, because now at .009 and .011 they are gone and the drive is smoother, but it feels like there's less pep to the car. So then if too tight would you see it bogging down with low idle stutter and hesitation along with more jerkiness in the drive (3 gear jerky, cruise control at 65 was jerky a bit) and if it's too loose then you loose power?
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 02:37 AM
  #22  
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None, my personal experience is if it's in spec that's it, out of spec causes problems. The closer you get to the specs on the hood the better, that is the ideal spec for power and throttle response.

If it's too tight the car will sound like it's missing, and idle like crap. It will be fine at higher rpms. Too loose and it makes a horrible clacking sound from the valve train plus it throws the timing off.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 05:15 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
None, my personal experience is if it's in spec that's it, out of spec causes problems. The closer you get to the specs on the hood the better, that is the ideal spec for power and throttle response.

If it's too tight the car will sound like it's missing, and idle like crap. It will be fine at higher rpms. Too loose and it makes a horrible clacking sound from the valve train plus it throws the timing off.
Very interesting. With the loose side, what happens when the timing is off? Like a misfire? Or something else.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 06:55 AM
  #24  
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Maximum lift height is critical --- AFAIK, the duration of lift is just as important. Too loose valves will have less duration of lift.

The duration of time the valves stay closed is essential for the transfer of heat. So, too short of a duration may lead to heat damage.

Last edited by windhund116; Feb 23, 2024 at 06:44 AM.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 10:44 AM
  #25  
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The valves remain closed for a split second longer than they should, works great for low rpms, not so good for high. Basically tighter or looser than spec on intake or exhaust is almost like using cam gears. Tighter to advance timing looser to retard it. As a general rule of thumb advancing intake timing to a point will improve torque across the board, but only to a point. One you won't exceed until you have beyond toasty tight valves.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:55 PM
  #26  
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On B and K series motors we found a repeatable 3hp gain with valve clearances set to the looser side on race motors.
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