Gear Heads

j/k

Lots of good info.
I can't do this off the top of my head so, a little sumpin, sumpin about Torque Wrenches
Up Tight With Torque Wrenches





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Geez Bill, you're a smart guy! It was an honor to have had lunch with ya.

Good examples of what Bill just said:
-The crank pulley nut. Not surprising that it has been noted that it can take up to 500 ft/lbs to remove when it was put on with only 181.
-The spark plug cover Allen Bolts. You have to "snap" these loose right off the bat or you'll round off the heads.
-Same with the coil pack hold down bolts.
In fact, many of the nuts and bolts on our car is like this, so take care.

 

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper

 

[QUOTE]Originally Posted by Legal Bill

 

Okay, I have one of the cheap clicker style torque wrenches. So far, I've only used it for lug nuts, but I also planned to use it on the various drain/fill bolts. If I'm setting it to approximately 30 lb-ft for the drain/fill bolts, do I care if I'm off 10 or 15% in either direction? Can anyone better characterize the amount of inaccuracy to expect in this type of torque wrench? Do they tend to read high vs. low, etc?

Jeff

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by slalom44

 

Slalom, good write-up.

The oil drain bolt torque specs are, I assume, always calculated dry. So either 1) how the hell do you get every drop of oil off the threads or 2) what's the conversion from dry ft-lb to oily ft-lb?