Need some advice on my paint imperfections please!
12-30-2013, 06:31 PM
#1
Need some advice on my paint imperfections please!
I have been getting into washing my car, pretty enjoyable actually.
I have bought a ton of products over the past couple of weeks, including a 6-inch dual-action polisher, hook and loop backing plate, bunch of cutting, buffing, polishing pads, some good wax, etc.
I know there are some good links on these forums of some excellent chip repairs and paint blending, but I'm wondering if mine are too big to try this? I'm a very patient person and don't mind if it takes a while, but does it take skill and practice, and something I may mess up?
I'm now interested in tackling some paint chip repairs but need some advice on whether or not I should do it myself. And also some advice on identifying some of the markings on my car.
Below are 2 areas that are the worst on my car. They were both on the car when I bought it from the PO.
The first pic is of my front bumper, is a grey "rub" that will NOT come off. I'm not even sure what it is? The PO didn't know what it was either. The grey blemish areas have no "edge" or anything. How would i go about tackling this one?
The second pic is where a trailer hitch hit the car in a parking lot. Again, before I bought the car. What route should I go for this? The pits are quite deep.
I'm just looking for some "path forward" advice, any would be appreciated
I have bought a ton of products over the past couple of weeks, including a 6-inch dual-action polisher, hook and loop backing plate, bunch of cutting, buffing, polishing pads, some good wax, etc.
I know there are some good links on these forums of some excellent chip repairs and paint blending, but I'm wondering if mine are too big to try this? I'm a very patient person and don't mind if it takes a while, but does it take skill and practice, and something I may mess up?
I'm now interested in tackling some paint chip repairs but need some advice on whether or not I should do it myself. And also some advice on identifying some of the markings on my car.
Below are 2 areas that are the worst on my car. They were both on the car when I bought it from the PO.
The first pic is of my front bumper, is a grey "rub" that will NOT come off. I'm not even sure what it is? The PO didn't know what it was either. The grey blemish areas have no "edge" or anything. How would i go about tackling this one?
The second pic is where a trailer hitch hit the car in a parking lot. Again, before I bought the car. What route should I go for this? The pits are quite deep.
I'm just looking for some "path forward" advice, any would be appreciated
12-30-2013, 06:51 PM
#2
Try to claybar the front bumper blemishes and then polish them out with a good polish product of your choice. They look like surface stains or etching and they should come off with some elbow grease. I think the rear bumper should be repainted.
12-30-2013, 07:17 PM
#3
When I go into 'polishing' this area out, should I just slap on a polishing pad and use some polish product like meguaires M205 and run my DA polisher over it? Or are there other steps I should take first?
12-30-2013, 07:30 PM
#4
If you have M105 try that, that has some more cutting power then the M205. If that doesn't work you can try wet sanding, as long as those "scuffs" are on the clear coat.
As to how to polish, you need to wash and clay the car just before using a polisher. The paint should be squeaky clean when the polisher touches the paint.
As to how to polish, you need to wash and clay the car just before using a polisher. The paint should be squeaky clean when the polisher touches the paint.
12-30-2013, 07:34 PM
#5
Ok thanks for the info.
On a sort-of other topic, I'm having a hard time finding a good well-rounded wash, wax, polish process that basically tells you which pads and products to use when and how. I'm afraid of using the wrong pad on the DA polisher at the wrong time and it affecting the paint. Is there a thread here with a good general guideline on the process order?
I ask because there's like a bagillion different "pads" and "grade" products (like the M105 vs M205 vs all the others...) and when I should be going nuts with the DA and when I should just be skimming over
On a sort-of other topic, I'm having a hard time finding a good well-rounded wash, wax, polish process that basically tells you which pads and products to use when and how. I'm afraid of using the wrong pad on the DA polisher at the wrong time and it affecting the paint. Is there a thread here with a good general guideline on the process order?
I ask because there's like a bagillion different "pads" and "grade" products (like the M105 vs M205 vs all the others...) and when I should be going nuts with the DA and when I should just be skimming over
12-30-2013, 07:47 PM
#6
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Ok thanks for the info.
On a sort-of other topic, I'm having a hard time finding a good well-rounded wash, wax, polish process that basically tells you which pads and products to use when and how. I'm afraid of using the wrong pad on the DA polisher at the wrong time and it affecting the paint. Is there a thread here with a good general guideline on the process order?
I ask because there's like a bagillion different "pads" and "grade" products (like the M105 vs M205 vs all the others...) and when I should be going nuts with the DA and when I should just be skimming over
On a sort-of other topic, I'm having a hard time finding a good well-rounded wash, wax, polish process that basically tells you which pads and products to use when and how. I'm afraid of using the wrong pad on the DA polisher at the wrong time and it affecting the paint. Is there a thread here with a good general guideline on the process order?
I ask because there's like a bagillion different "pads" and "grade" products (like the M105 vs M205 vs all the others...) and when I should be going nuts with the DA and when I should just be skimming over
Oh, you might try some touch up paint on your rear bumper. It sadly won't buff out. Also, if you've recently clayed the car doing it again won't do much good. Finally, go YouTube AmmoNYC and watch Larry's videos. He's amazing at detailing stuff.
12-30-2013, 08:10 PM
#7
Ok thanks for the info.
On a sort-of other topic, I'm having a hard time finding a good well-rounded wash, wax, polish process that basically tells you which pads and products to use when and how. I'm afraid of using the wrong pad on the DA polisher at the wrong time and it affecting the paint. Is there a thread here with a good general guideline on the process order?
I ask because there's like a bagillion different "pads" and "grade" products (like the M105 vs M205 vs all the others...) and when I should be going nuts with the DA and when I should just be skimming over
On a sort-of other topic, I'm having a hard time finding a good well-rounded wash, wax, polish process that basically tells you which pads and products to use when and how. I'm afraid of using the wrong pad on the DA polisher at the wrong time and it affecting the paint. Is there a thread here with a good general guideline on the process order?
I ask because there's like a bagillion different "pads" and "grade" products (like the M105 vs M205 vs all the others...) and when I should be going nuts with the DA and when I should just be skimming over
As for which products and in what order to use them depends on the condition of the paint you're correcting. Ideally you want to use the least abrasive polish/pad to get rid of scratches/swirl marks. There are forums such as Autopia specifically on this topic and you can watch tutorial's on youtube for example by junkman2000, etc.
Since you haven't started just yet, I suggest you read, read, and read some more before you actually start on your car. If you're not careful it is possible to do damage on your car that you wont be able to repair easily.
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12-31-2013, 03:56 PM
#8
Over the past 24 hours I've been reading a LOT from the link threads with tons of info and videos and stuff. Quite an awesome source actually. I've had the flu for a few days so... plenty of time to read.
My paint is in fairly good condition so I think I'm going to just use polishing level pads, 8006 and 9006 I think. I MAY try some ultimate compound (megs) and then follow up with some polish and a nice wax. I think then I'm supposed to go after the pesky swirls with some swirl removal.
My main question is, can I use my DA for everything? On the meg's site their professional detailing video on paint correction they use a rotary drive a LOT for most of the steps. Is there anything I could potentially mess up on my paint with a DA instead of a rotary? I wouldn't think so...?
Thanks!
My paint is in fairly good condition so I think I'm going to just use polishing level pads, 8006 and 9006 I think. I MAY try some ultimate compound (megs) and then follow up with some polish and a nice wax. I think then I'm supposed to go after the pesky swirls with some swirl removal.
My main question is, can I use my DA for everything? On the meg's site their professional detailing video on paint correction they use a rotary drive a LOT for most of the steps. Is there anything I could potentially mess up on my paint with a DA instead of a rotary? I wouldn't think so...?
Thanks!
12-31-2013, 05:50 PM
#9
It's the other way around. Rotary is for the more experienced and with that you can really mess up your paint if you're not careful.
As for polishing, you need to do test spots. In one small section of your car start with soft pad/light polish and see if it removes all of the swirls or not. If it doesn't jump up to the next pad and/or more abrasive polish. Continue jumping up on the pads until you achieve the desired result. Once your combo removes just about all of the swirls, continue using that for that bodypanel. Also before starting the polishing go around the car with a good light and see if there are spots on the paint with less swirls/scratches. For those you can get away with a softer pad. Your goal should be to remove the least amount of clear coat while achieving "swirl-free" paint.
As for polishing, you need to do test spots. In one small section of your car start with soft pad/light polish and see if it removes all of the swirls or not. If it doesn't jump up to the next pad and/or more abrasive polish. Continue jumping up on the pads until you achieve the desired result. Once your combo removes just about all of the swirls, continue using that for that bodypanel. Also before starting the polishing go around the car with a good light and see if there are spots on the paint with less swirls/scratches. For those you can get away with a softer pad. Your goal should be to remove the least amount of clear coat while achieving "swirl-free" paint.
01-03-2014, 06:32 AM
#10
It's the other way around. Rotary is for the more experienced and with that you can really mess up your paint if you're not careful.
As for polishing, you need to do test spots. In one small section of your car start with soft pad/light polish and see if it removes all of the swirls or not. If it doesn't jump up to the next pad and/or more abrasive polish. Continue jumping up on the pads until you achieve the desired result. Once your combo removes just about all of the swirls, continue using that for that bodypanel. Also before starting the polishing go around the car with a good light and see if there are spots on the paint with less swirls/scratches. For those you can get away with a softer pad. Your goal should be to remove the least amount of clear coat while achieving "swirl-free" paint.
As for polishing, you need to do test spots. In one small section of your car start with soft pad/light polish and see if it removes all of the swirls or not. If it doesn't jump up to the next pad and/or more abrasive polish. Continue jumping up on the pads until you achieve the desired result. Once your combo removes just about all of the swirls, continue using that for that bodypanel. Also before starting the polishing go around the car with a good light and see if there are spots on the paint with less swirls/scratches. For those you can get away with a softer pad. Your goal should be to remove the least amount of clear coat while achieving "swirl-free" paint.