After a wash, I can't seem to get rid of them completely?

Anyone know some stuff that can melt these away?

 

No longer sold in stores
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-A3016.../dp/B0009IQX86
After winter break I am going to try removing a tag in spray paint on my roommates '96 Ford Ranger, its like a liquid clay bar and its amazing. I started using it to remove collision damage, when two cars collide there's usually some white streaks, and Megs Paint Cleaner gets it right off. Its part of their old 3 part system they apparently have mostly abandoned as I only find step 2 in stores these days. Well worth it to buy it somewhere online for about $10 after shipping to have a bottle on hand.
I just used it last night to remove white scuff marks from having a mugen top on and it left a white mark on the paint on the painted plastic panel above the trunk. (At least I heard its plastic)

 

^^^
It sounds like this is a good product to remove foot scuff marks on your plastic door trims/panels/seat trims? Which I also need BTW.

But, by "watermarks," what I meant was those pesky spots after you wash your car and the water on the surface dries up, it leaves these 'marks' that are hard to get rid of. Especially when the water is 'hard.'

I've heard some people use white vinegar mixed with water (distilled?) at 50/50 ratio. Has anyone try this?

 

Those are water spots:


Watermarks are something else entirely and used on images, documents, etc.

That's because they're mineral (the stuff that makes the water hard) deposits.

Google around a bit. You really need to know what type of water spot it is. If it is a surface water spot vinegar may help if the mineral deposit is something that the acetic acid will dissolve (why vinegar is commonly used to descale coffee machines, etc). If it's some other mineral then vinegar won't do anything. Keep in mind that vinegar will probably affect whatever wax/sealant you have.

 

The vinegar trick works, but so does a clay bar & detailer. The real solution is to revise your drying technique to eliminate/minimize water spots. What are you using currently to dry with, and how quickly do you dry it off completely. Short of using a blower, either leaf or vacuum type, the waffle MF towels are excellent for removing the water from a car quickly.

 

I'm using this.


But these still leaves smallest spots all over so I have to use towel anyways.

Blowers works but only after I use towel to wipe them off and is good for getting the water out of the cracks and gaps between the panels.

I'll have to research what types of spots I have first.

 

i have the same problem on my NFR i noticed it was after some rain and i did not feel like washing the car since the forecast always says its going to rain and when i start to wash my car i get into every little thing i can lol
but i would highly suggest to throw those away they dont work as well as a MF cloth meaning (MicroFiber cloth) they are really soft and will not damage your paint as other towels/cloths.
but i have really been wanting to use that trick about the vinegar but after that can i just spray ICE Wax after that sense i know vinegar is a bit of an acidic mineral. or i would also like to hear another alternative aside from a bar because i just dont have the time for that because i would get so mad i waste a lot of time and then in the morning i see my car and its dirty from the showers.

 

I used M105 (Meguiars) to remove nasty water spots from a black truck which was from Mexico (friend lives there 6 months) and not dried after a couple rainstorms. Most were on the top, hood and trunk. I used an orange aggressive pad and followed up with M205. It removed them but it took some time.

 

This should work well even when used with a hand applicator and/or a MF towel if the water mark(s) are confined to a small area.

 

If water spots are fresh, a vinegar/water solution (perhaps 50:50) may be sufficient to remove the spots. But if the spots have been allowed to stand for a while, then washing with vinegar (or whatever) will not work. The reason is this: the minerals are no longer sitting on top of the paint; they have etched (i.e., damaged) the paint. Hence the only way to remove the spots is to polish the paint (i.e., remove a microscopic layer of the clearcoat). How you go about doing this depends on the equipment and supplies that you have on hand.

On the assumption that you do not have a dual action polisher or rotary polisher, you will have to polish by hand. I recommend that you pick up a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish, as well as some foam applicators and a couple of high quality microfiber towels. Do a small test spot. Apply a quarter size dollop to the applicator. Vigorously rub the compound into the paint. Towel off. Inspect. You may need to do this a couple of times. Inspect again. Do you see any progress? Are the spots being removed? If yes, then go ahead and work on the rest of the spotting. You may need to follow up with Ultimate Polish to remove any hazing left behind by UC. If you don't see any progress, then you may have to find someone to machine polish the affected panels for you.

Water spots are the bane of my S2K. It's a never-ending battle.