adjusting valves, when?, why? how often?
10-18-2017, 06:34 AM
#1
adjusting valves, when?, why? how often?
Morning S2K world.
If this is covered elsewhere just point me there and we can delete this post.
Being new to the S2K world, and just having purchased my 05 S2K, of course I want it to look and run perfect!!....that said I have been surfing posts/threads youtube etc etc and have heard mentioned a few times "valve adjustment"...
So if you don't mind me asking....
- is there a honda recommended time frame, ie, after so many miles?
- are their symptoms I should be looking for or listening for....(is it like the old school v8's where we start hearing "tappet type clicking noise"....or other symptoms I should be watching/listening for?
- is the need for valve adjustment OBVIOUS....
thanks folks!
If this is covered elsewhere just point me there and we can delete this post.
Being new to the S2K world, and just having purchased my 05 S2K, of course I want it to look and run perfect!!....that said I have been surfing posts/threads youtube etc etc and have heard mentioned a few times "valve adjustment"...
So if you don't mind me asking....
- is there a honda recommended time frame, ie, after so many miles?
- are their symptoms I should be looking for or listening for....(is it like the old school v8's where we start hearing "tappet type clicking noise"....or other symptoms I should be watching/listening for?
- is the need for valve adjustment OBVIOUS....
thanks folks!
10-18-2017, 09:29 AM
#3
interesting....AP1 vs AP2.....what is it about the AP2 that makes it a little less susceptible, is it the lowered red line? or something more technical/specific to the AP2 motor? Also you say you beat the piss out of your car. I assume that if I drive it less hard, the valve adjustment might not be needed as often, or if at all?? thanks for your input.
10-18-2017, 04:59 PM
#4
Actually, my understanding is that the ap2 DBW cars are the most susceptible to burned valves resulting from tight valve gaps. Tight valves are quiet - loose valves are noisy.
The key is to adjust your valves now to set a baseline. Billman reports that with his ap1 his valves have held their gaps for over 100,000 miles. I adjusted my ap1 at about 20K miles and they were all within spec. I set them to the tight side of spec. The car runs like a dream. I hear a small amount of valve noise, not much. When it gets quiet you need to be worried.
The key is to adjust your valves now to set a baseline. Billman reports that with his ap1 his valves have held their gaps for over 100,000 miles. I adjusted my ap1 at about 20K miles and they were all within spec. I set them to the tight side of spec. The car runs like a dream. I hear a small amount of valve noise, not much. When it gets quiet you need to be worried.
Last edited by rpg51; 10-18-2017 at 05:04 PM.
10-18-2017, 05:08 PM
#5
The 2006+ (DBW) cars have been documented to have tight valves on just about every one seen by Billman. Tight valves soon become burned valves. I believe his recommendation for exhaust clearance is a loose MAX setting as they tighten with mileage. But all these cars need the valve clearances verified. If the engine is silky quiet the valves are probably very tight and that's dangerous to the engine's health. A buddy's '02 had many tight. My '06 had none out of spec but some near minimum.
Find the articles in the library, set the $12 special screwdriver/wrench and a set of bent feeler gauge and check yours when the get the car in hand and are doing all the initial base line fluid changes. Cold engine in the garage on a Saturday morning with the car on jack stands. If they're fine they're fine but I'm betting many are tight. Fix 'em. Check again in 20K miles or so just to be safe.
AP1 valve retainers will crack if the engine is mechanically over-revved (missed shifts playing Fast and Furious) and a valve can drop into the cylinder. AP1 engines can use the better AP2 retainers.
There is really not that great difference in engine max revs. 8400 on the AP2 engine and maybe 8900 on the AP1. 8000 and 9000 are round numbers for the tach.
From another post today. Note the tools and simplicity. Patience!
-- Chuck
Find the articles in the library, set the $12 special screwdriver/wrench and a set of bent feeler gauge and check yours when the get the car in hand and are doing all the initial base line fluid changes. Cold engine in the garage on a Saturday morning with the car on jack stands. If they're fine they're fine but I'm betting many are tight. Fix 'em. Check again in 20K miles or so just to be safe.
AP1 valve retainers will crack if the engine is mechanically over-revved (missed shifts playing Fast and Furious) and a valve can drop into the cylinder. AP1 engines can use the better AP2 retainers.
There is really not that great difference in engine max revs. 8400 on the AP2 engine and maybe 8900 on the AP1. 8000 and 9000 are round numbers for the tach.
From another post today. Note the tools and simplicity. Patience!
-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; 10-18-2017 at 05:18 PM.
10-20-2017, 09:43 AM
#6
The 2006+ (DBW) cars have been documented to have tight valves on just about every one seen by Billman. Tight valves soon become burned valves. I believe his recommendation for exhaust clearance is a loose MAX setting as they tighten with mileage. But all these cars need the valve clearances verified. If the engine is silky quiet the valves are probably very tight and that's dangerous to the engine's health. A buddy's '02 had many tight. My '06 had none out of spec but some near minimum.
Find the articles in the library, set the $12 special screwdriver/wrench and a set of bent feeler gauge and check yours when the get the car in hand and are doing all the initial base line fluid changes. Cold engine in the garage on a Saturday morning with the car on jack stands. If they're fine they're fine but I'm betting many are tight. Fix 'em. Check again in 20K miles or so just to be safe.
AP1 valve retainers will crack if the engine is mechanically over-revved (missed shifts playing Fast and Furious) and a valve can drop into the cylinder. AP1 engines can use the better AP2 retainers.
There is really not that great difference in engine max revs. 8400 on the AP2 engine and maybe 8900 on the AP1. 8000 and 9000 are round numbers for the tach.
From another post today. Note the tools and simplicity. Patience!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=5gq0xQg0TAA
-- Chuck
Find the articles in the library, set the $12 special screwdriver/wrench and a set of bent feeler gauge and check yours when the get the car in hand and are doing all the initial base line fluid changes. Cold engine in the garage on a Saturday morning with the car on jack stands. If they're fine they're fine but I'm betting many are tight. Fix 'em. Check again in 20K miles or so just to be safe.
AP1 valve retainers will crack if the engine is mechanically over-revved (missed shifts playing Fast and Furious) and a valve can drop into the cylinder. AP1 engines can use the better AP2 retainers.
There is really not that great difference in engine max revs. 8400 on the AP2 engine and maybe 8900 on the AP1. 8000 and 9000 are round numbers for the tach.
From another post today. Note the tools and simplicity. Patience!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=5gq0xQg0TAA
-- Chuck
10-20-2017, 02:55 PM
#7
Best practice (and the Honda shop manual) specify new gaskets. They're cheap. I put in new plugs since taking them out makes the engine turn over more easily. Also inexpensive.
Unless there's a Billmax GenX TCT (timing chain tensioner) in the engine put one in there too. (Accept no substitutes.) Excellent preventive maintenance and PM is the best maintenance. Maintenance work on this car has been easy and satisfying. Not too many special tools but I've managed to acquire a collection including a 36mm 3/4" socket and breaker bar for the rear wheel bearings. My wife thinks that at "my age" I shouldn't be under the car so much but it's a grand difference from the rest of my life. Just gotta find a way to keep the oil off the floor. Oil changes and I are prone to be messy. Annual service coming up in a couple of months, then beddy-bye under the cover for a couple of months, (The car.)
-- Chuck
Unless there's a Billmax GenX TCT (timing chain tensioner) in the engine put one in there too. (Accept no substitutes.) Excellent preventive maintenance and PM is the best maintenance. Maintenance work on this car has been easy and satisfying. Not too many special tools but I've managed to acquire a collection including a 36mm 3/4" socket and breaker bar for the rear wheel bearings. My wife thinks that at "my age" I shouldn't be under the car so much but it's a grand difference from the rest of my life. Just gotta find a way to keep the oil off the floor. Oil changes and I are prone to be messy. Annual service coming up in a couple of months, then beddy-bye under the cover for a couple of months, (The car.)
-- Chuck
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10-23-2017, 07:59 PM
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