AP1 Specific autocross tire setups
#1
AP1 Specific autocross tire setups
Hey guys I'm looking a getting a dedicated set of rims + tires for autocrossing, having just completed my 1st season. I need to stay in B Street to still be competitive without dropping a ton of cash. This means rims must be 16s or 17s no wider than 6.5F/7.5R. I want to pinch wide tires onto these sizes, going hopefully as far as 225F 255R. The issue arises that neither Bridgestone RE71r's or Hankook RS4's come in the 255/16 size for the rear. So heck lets try going onto 17s aaaaand I can't find a 17x6.5 for the front, but the tire sizes are now available. I want to hear from you other AP1 autocrossers who drive in your stock class to get some tips on how to max my tire setup to compete in B Street/C Stock Plus (for the PITL crowd). I'm starting to wonder if it would be feasible to go 225/16F and 255/17R and figure out the aspect ratios that work with this setup?
Will
Will
#2
17x6.5 can be had with the ultra heavy Mazda5 rim- but it is the right offset for the s2000. We own a mazda5 incidentally and these rims are noticeably heavy- you will feel the difference no question- when I put the FD RX-7 winter rims on, even April comments the steering feels better. So...the other option is a set of lightweight O.Z. Alleggerita HLT (Black) wheels - front 17x7, rear 17x8.5 for B Street- what is the rule on using AP2 size on AP1 for B/C street? I own a set which are for sale, but these aren't the cheapest solution either (new these are $1300 USD for a set).
I know of no one who has done a 16"F, 17"R. Interesting and reminds me of the 70's.
why not keep the stock AP1 rims (or buy my autocross AP1 rims for cheap) and go with an RE-11 Bridgestone in the 225F, 245R size?
darcy
I know of no one who has done a 16"F, 17"R. Interesting and reminds me of the 70's.
why not keep the stock AP1 rims (or buy my autocross AP1 rims for cheap) and go with an RE-11 Bridgestone in the 225F, 245R size?
darcy
#4
Provincial slalom rules for street (which follows SCCA) says there's no points against going square- you just can't use square rim set up in street classes for the s2000. Period.
Competitors are allowed to go up and down a rim size +/- 1", but not rim width. And that's the rub with the AP1- stock F 16x6.5, R 16x7.5. So going up one inch diameter F= 17x6.5 is allowable- but damn, there are no choices there except the mazda5. Offset has to be within 7mm of stock. AP2 has lots and lots of better options. So, wanna be ultra competitive in street? Front monster sway bar, damper upgrade with OEM springs, alignment within the bounds of the OEM adjustments.
Competitors can instead go up to STR class...and then the sky is the limit (nearly). Flashpro, suspension, intake, exhaust, square set up, lots and lots of stuff to do. but then $$$.
Individual clubs can do whatever they want with rules, but if a competitor wants to run the provincial series, they may find them selves outclassed within the SCCA/casc rules with modifications that place them in a class they're not used to.
Different theories out there, but OP needs to go with a monster front bar (karcept, ankeny, moddiction, maybe CR) and good 200 UTQG tires for not crazy $- upgrade those dampers and you'll be spending almost $2000 for custom valved konis with your stock spring.
darcy
Competitors are allowed to go up and down a rim size +/- 1", but not rim width. And that's the rub with the AP1- stock F 16x6.5, R 16x7.5. So going up one inch diameter F= 17x6.5 is allowable- but damn, there are no choices there except the mazda5. Offset has to be within 7mm of stock. AP2 has lots and lots of better options. So, wanna be ultra competitive in street? Front monster sway bar, damper upgrade with OEM springs, alignment within the bounds of the OEM adjustments.
Competitors can instead go up to STR class...and then the sky is the limit (nearly). Flashpro, suspension, intake, exhaust, square set up, lots and lots of stuff to do. but then $$$.
Individual clubs can do whatever they want with rules, but if a competitor wants to run the provincial series, they may find them selves outclassed within the SCCA/casc rules with modifications that place them in a class they're not used to.
Different theories out there, but OP needs to go with a monster front bar (karcept, ankeny, moddiction, maybe CR) and good 200 UTQG tires for not crazy $- upgrade those dampers and you'll be spending almost $2000 for custom valved konis with your stock spring.
darcy
Last edited by darcyw; 12-06-2017 at 05:19 PM.
#5
Custom Valved Koni's are about $2000 US, and really they are not that huge of an improvement over stock. Really have to start getting into the pimp shock setups for 3-5k USD for them to see an improvement. Really at that point you are chasing tenths, and the returns are minimal.
Good B Street setup is large front sway bar like Darcy said, with a lightweight single exit exhaust and square tires, which on an AP1 is going to be 225 wide. Square tired with large front bar is going to make the car very neutral, and will be loads better than a staggered setup.
Good B Street setup is large front sway bar like Darcy said, with a lightweight single exit exhaust and square tires, which on an AP1 is going to be 225 wide. Square tired with large front bar is going to make the car very neutral, and will be loads better than a staggered setup.
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