Seized my engine
#21
#22
If I had to pick one gauge on an NA car it would be oil temp.
I’m running the oil temp sensor from the pan drain bolt. I tapped the drain bolt to fit the sensor. It’s probaby the easiest but since the pan is off I’d put the sensor into the pan for ease of oil changes. The oil pressure sensor can be put in the stock oil dummy light location but I wouldn’t just thread the sensor into the hole. Oil pressure sensors are usually clunky and heavy and will eventually strip out the aluminum threads in the block. I went with a fitting to an -4an fitting, then ran a hydraulic line to a spot on the car to mount the sensor to take the weight. I also run a wideband afr gauge... if you decide to run a stand alone ecu for some more jam!
I have a welded in baffle in the pan. No issues.
I’m running the oil temp sensor from the pan drain bolt. I tapped the drain bolt to fit the sensor. It’s probaby the easiest but since the pan is off I’d put the sensor into the pan for ease of oil changes. The oil pressure sensor can be put in the stock oil dummy light location but I wouldn’t just thread the sensor into the hole. Oil pressure sensors are usually clunky and heavy and will eventually strip out the aluminum threads in the block. I went with a fitting to an -4an fitting, then ran a hydraulic line to a spot on the car to mount the sensor to take the weight. I also run a wideband afr gauge... if you decide to run a stand alone ecu for some more jam!
I have a welded in baffle in the pan. No issues.
#23
I like to have an oil pressure gauge in order to monitor long term trends, that way you can see how oil pressures may change over time as bearings wear and oil pump output might decrease. It is hard to see small drops in oil pressure when driving on a track or similar situations, but it never hurts. My vote is to have both monitors - temp and pressure. If I could wire it up then anyone can, not that hard.
#26
Ok, upon further inspection, I found that all but the 3rd rod had some play. So, after removing the endcap, hmm thats strange, where is the bearing? Well it looks like it got lonely and wanted to play with his friend
after removal of the cap, the motor began to spin again with gracefulness and ease. Bores all look good, couldn't find any scratches anywhere.
Last edited by starchland; 08-11-2017 at 04:12 PM.
#27
Community Organizer
Here is the link, it is in Calgary though. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-...-km/1288460381
You could likely find something closer to home if you searched hard, waited or wanted to pay more. Good luck Jeff.
You could likely find something closer to home if you searched hard, waited or wanted to pay more. Good luck Jeff.
#28
Here is the link, it is in Calgary though. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-...-km/1288460381
You could likely find something closer to home if you searched hard, waited or wanted to pay more. Good luck Jeff.
You could likely find something closer to home if you searched hard, waited or wanted to pay more. Good luck Jeff.
does anyone have an oil flow chart for the s2000?
#29
Jeff if it is just rod bearing damage you can likely rebuild your engine and get away with much less costs. Your oil pan looked like mine though, all of my chunks came from the main bearings . I hope you don't have main bearing damage. If you just have rod bearing damage then repair the rods, bearings, and crank and call it a day. While in there put in a new ap2 oil pump for extra security. Great news that the bores are not scuffed. Personally I'd refresh the engine with new rings, bearings, seals, and oil pump like I did on mine when I had my issues, it will give you lots of life going forward and peace of mind. All the best buddy.