broke it..
There aren't many threads on here about successful rebuilds; I'm not an expert (try Turtle or Buuan) but the concencious seems to be on e they're fecked they stay fecked.
I am very happy to be proved wrong BTW
I am very happy to be proved wrong BTW
I think the general issue is whenever one component has gone wrong then what else has it taken with it.
Too many stories of a rebuild which when run develops another problem only then to realise it would have been easier / cheaper just to put a replacement engine in.
I paid £1650 for a 30k mile 3 year old engine when mine went, don't think those sorts of deals are available anymore.
Too many stories of a rebuild which when run develops another problem only then to realise it would have been easier / cheaper just to put a replacement engine in.
I paid £1650 for a 30k mile 3 year old engine when mine went, don't think those sorts of deals are available anymore.
I tend to concur with that and paid about two bag for an engine some years ago.
Whether it's collateral damage or repair technique, it's hard to generalise. But one that's been unopened seems the safer bet.
Whether it's collateral damage or repair technique, it's hard to generalise. But one that's been unopened seems the safer bet.
Any chance you've some photos to give an idea of levels of damage?
Very difficult to say yay or nay without having some idea of the conditions.
The crank bearing surfaces should feel glassy due to the level of finishing on them.
The oil clearances will be in the realms of 5~25 microns on the main bearings for example (a human hear is in the realms of about 70microns from memory). The big end clearances are a bit bigger at around 40microns due to the excentric loading needing more oil cushioning. Any deformations on the surface can maybe bridge that gap and break down the oil film and you'd be back to square one at least and maybe worse
Absolutely any doubt and it'd be better to go with a reground crank and as others have said you've no idea what debris is getting pushed around elsewhere in the system that can cause further damage.
Very difficult to say yay or nay without having some idea of the conditions.
The crank bearing surfaces should feel glassy due to the level of finishing on them.
The oil clearances will be in the realms of 5~25 microns on the main bearings for example (a human hear is in the realms of about 70microns from memory). The big end clearances are a bit bigger at around 40microns due to the excentric loading needing more oil cushioning. Any deformations on the surface can maybe bridge that gap and break down the oil film and you'd be back to square one at least and maybe worse
Absolutely any doubt and it'd be better to go with a reground crank and as others have said you've no idea what debris is getting pushed around elsewhere in the system that can cause further damage.
Gutted!
I only saw you driving up the A63/M62 with an Evo the other day. Your car had blue gaffer tape on the front for some strange reason
I'd go for a swap rather than rebuild
Hope you get it sorted
I only saw you driving up the A63/M62 with an Evo the other day. Your car had blue gaffer tape on the front for some strange reason

I'd go for a swap rather than rebuild
Hope you get it sorted
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