In respect of the positioning - its exactly where my HKS Suction kit takes it from.

 

After playing with different intakes (home made) I think the best mod on the standard airbox would be to cut a hole on the bottom of the box just forward of the cross member and fit 3" plastic drain pipe with push on elbows down to the same take up point that commercial CAI systems use i.e just behind the false air vent in the bumper. You get cold air and because the filter is still in the original position no waterlock, i would use the push on bends as they are smooth inside and you get less turbulence and static loss. I am currently running a snorkel and the narrowest point in the snorkel is nearly half the square area of the throttle plate, I suppose the positive pressure gained from the incoming air compensates for this but I cant help wondering if it would give more power if the cross section could be increased. Any chance of somebody making a new air box top with holes for 2 snorkels one either side of the bonnet latch?
I don't want this to sound like I am against these snorkels I think they are a good addition and that's why I am using one. When I tested the home made unit it deff lowered the temp inside the airbox but only when the car was moving if it stood at traffic the temp soared.
I have insulated the air box with heat reflecting aluminium tape and lagged the rubber tube with an insulating jacket and this has helped a lot, I will post pictures at weekend, for those using aluminium intake pipes the jacket is a must as it stops the tube acting as a heat exchanger I paid around $35 for it and it came with a choice of coloured lace ups--looks good IMHO
There is a product on the market called lizard skin that is sprayed on like paint and protects against heat soak, the problem is you have to buy around 5 gallon at over