Engine Knock
Its being bugging me for a while but after searching the forums I'm starting to sweat.
Often when cold the engine gives of a knocking noise, goes when warm and rev'd but it might be getting louder or I'm getting more paranoid. In fact I'm sure I mentioned it at the last service.
I check the oil regular and on a few occasions it was below the line and one thread reported many short engine replacements after a taping followed by a breakdown but only on low miles motors.
The car used to be my regular driver but is now a 2nd car and has just cover 59k miles.
Apart from going back to the garage has anybody got any words of wisdom, advice, knowledge that will calm my nerves and pocket?
Often when cold the engine gives of a knocking noise, goes when warm and rev'd but it might be getting louder or I'm getting more paranoid. In fact I'm sure I mentioned it at the last service.
I check the oil regular and on a few occasions it was below the line and one thread reported many short engine replacements after a taping followed by a breakdown but only on low miles motors.
The car used to be my regular driver but is now a 2nd car and has just cover 59k miles.
Apart from going back to the garage has anybody got any words of wisdom, advice, knowledge that will calm my nerves and pocket?
Just been to check again before leaving for home and its dropped below the 'L' again, even thought 50 miles before it was fine. No sign of an oil leak, nothing on the floor, clean output at the exhaust and no sign of leaking around the engine.
No knocking this time unlike earlier today, quite before the storm?
Next stop the Shell garage for more oil.
No knocking this time unlike earlier today, quite before the storm?
Next stop the Shell garage for more oil.
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The oil level is VERY difficult to read reliably (but I assume you already know this).
Reduction in oil level in only 50 miles
- now that is scary - even my Helix guzzler doesn't use that much.
Reduction in oil level in only 50 miles
- now that is scary - even my Helix guzzler doesn't use that much.
Should check your oil every week (actually i normally do every month but I'm a low mileage day to day user, only 5 miles to work and I live near the town centre so don't do an awful lot). Should always try and keep the oil against the full line. It doesn't work the oil as hard, keeps the lubricant properties working better and will mean you have less wear on your bearings/rings (if you've worked the oil hard earlier in it's life might be a reason why your consumption seems high now)
DO NOT RELY ON YOUR OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TO TELL YOU WHEN YOU ARE LOW ON OIL!!!!!!!!!!!
If that light comes on your engine is buggered. You'll get it to the dealers and if it hasn't already put a con-rod through the block your Big end bearings will have to be replaced as a minimum requirement. That light is only designed to give you a fighting chance of getting out of the fast lane before your engine siezes rock solid and you come to a grinding halt in 70+mph traffic.
Example. Oil pressure switch operation will be about 100kPa or less. Oil system pressure will be about 300~400kPa (in cold conditions it may get to 500kPa as the viscosity is higher) and the Oil filter will distort and be damaged at about 600kPa. On my engine tests I'd be stopping, stripping and checking for damage if the pressure dropped to 260kPa.
Also (and I really hate to tell you this as I think I may be the bearer of bad news here) When I've been doing warranty investigation I've found that customers come in with either a complaint about the oil consumption or a knocking noise and when the engine is stripped the you find the big end bearings are shafted, and there are signs of severe overheating on the con-rods (from the friction) which has cooked off the oil locally causing it to use a lot of oil.
I think the general advice is get the dealer to have a look quick and is absolutely bang on
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