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Front suspension replacement help

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Old 11-11-2012, 04:54 AM
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These are completely new arms.

As above, the job was apparently pretty straightforward bar one sticky bolt.
Old 12-29-2014, 10:18 AM
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Hello! First post here in need of help!-- as the mobile mechanic i got in ripped off the abs sensor on the driver side hub whilst trying to the car side lower arm nuts front suspension. mission creep =£190+

The self-locking cam nut on the lower arm is not budging after loads of wd40 and hammering. It must be seized in the bush. How did [bar the long siezed offside camber which required some "persuasion"][/lovegroova]get this off??

Its part no.25 on the 1st parts diagram above.

I'm not familiar with this work but want to learn and have the drive (pun) to get it done. I know its labour intensive but want to refit poly bushes on my existing arms just need to get this nut out!!!

Do i need proper garage help?? some sort of press? Thanks very much (slating welcome).
Old 12-29-2014, 10:19 AM
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Mine was all done at a garage.

Are you in the UK? if so, we can probably point you in the right direction.
Old 12-29-2014, 10:24 AM
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yes portsmouth (just updated my profile). Becoming a bit of a nightmare, all i need to do do is work out how to get this seized bolt out. trying to save money but looking like its going to be quite the opposite!
Old 12-29-2014, 10:40 AM
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Well, TGM in Fleet is probably your best bet:

http://www.tgmsport.co.uk/contact
Old 12-29-2014, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by blurby
The self-locking cam nut on the lower arm is not budging after loads of wd40 and hammering. It must be seized in the bush. How did [bar the long siezed offside camber which required some "persuasion"][/lovegroova]get this off??
Might be worth trying PlusGas, far superior to WD40 for this kind of thing. Spray well and leave overnight?
Old 01-05-2015, 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by lovegroova
Well, TGM in Fleet is probably your best bet:

http://www.tgmsport.co.uk/contact
Thanks I'll still be going through the diy route atmo as the hub is off and all but the inner lower arm bolts are off, looks like both are seized. Ive used a reciprocating saw to get through the horizontal inner bush, now for the vertical one!

From what i can ascertain, the right thing to do is to get an acetylene or propane torch to heat up the rubber enough to pull or bash the bolt out. without blowing the car up.
Old 01-05-2015, 04:33 AM
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Heat is good if you can keep it on the right spot
I used this and got one of the rear bolts loose http://www.wurth.co.uk/technical-che...-off-ice-400ml
The #25 one that you have problem with had to be sawed off though.
Old 01-06-2015, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by flanders
Heat is good if you can keep it on the right spot
I used this and got one of the rear bolts loose http://www.wurth.co.uk/technical-che...-off-ice-400ml
The #25 one that you have problem with had to be sawed off though.
Thanks, the bolts/bushes i'm nearly through 2 x (£16) rep saw blades later, i heated the vertical lower arm bush with a propane torch which got a bit flamy, so went down the rep saw route (again). The only weirdish thing is that the nut #14 on the vertical (left bush of lower arm on drivers side uk) is mobile up and down but turns when i turn the bolt #13, i can't seem to get the nut off at all. hopefully when i saw through the bush and bolt, the bolt will come out of the bottom and the arm will pull out and then the nut will come with it off from the top.

This is an arse of a job.
Old 01-06-2015, 02:27 PM
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If you cut the caster bolt off and it's still attached to the nut, you are going to have big issues.
The nut won't come out from between the subframe and body without dropping the subframe (even with the bolt removed)
Remember the bolt is inside the adjustment sleeve.
You really need to undo the bolt first, then cut the sleeve as that is usually the part siezed in the bush.


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