Just bought a j's racing ecu..
Hey guys, just bought a j's racing ecu off of a user on here.
Turned up in the post today
- I finally found the ECU in the passenger footwell (I may of damaged some plastic taking it off, not sure?).
Ok, questions are... how do I swap them?
Do I disconnect the battery first? What do I use to undo the bolts on the ecu? will the alarm be going off for ages when i reconnect the ecu? Where's this wire I'm supposed to ground?
Turned up in the post today

- I finally found the ECU in the passenger footwell (I may of damaged some plastic taking it off, not sure?).
Ok, questions are... how do I swap them?
Do I disconnect the battery first? What do I use to undo the bolts on the ecu? will the alarm be going off for ages when i reconnect the ecu? Where's this wire I'm supposed to ground?
Technically you should disconnect the battery first. The alarm won't go off. Not sure about the ground wire, some seem to need it and others don't. AJs2k will know.
ECU needs to be unbolted then unclup the 3 connector harnesses.
The J's should just slot in its place.
Do you have the triangular headed bolts? Ideally you need a special tool, but they can be beater off! I think I put an awl or screwdriven onto the side of the head and tapped it round with a hammer.
There is a home made tool whihc is communaly owned on here, but i'm not sure who has it now.
Good luck with the J's, it's the best aftermarket plug in ECU imo.
ECU needs to be unbolted then unclup the 3 connector harnesses.
The J's should just slot in its place.
Do you have the triangular headed bolts? Ideally you need a special tool, but they can be beater off! I think I put an awl or screwdriven onto the side of the head and tapped it round with a hammer.
There is a home made tool whihc is communaly owned on here, but i'm not sure who has it now.
Good luck with the J's, it's the best aftermarket plug in ECU imo.
Remove the pastic shielding around the ECU/footwell.
Remove the two hex bolts, undo the 3 connectors use your nail or small screwdriver (be careful dont slip) they have a tab on them.
You'll probably need to ground the green/yellow wire pin 15 to the ECU bolt (refer to wiring diagram do a search on here) , i used a scotch lock onto the ECU wire and attached an O ring connector(crimped) that slid over the bolt.
J's is the best OEM plug in ECU.
Do the usual, let it learn idle for a few minutes, take it easy then when upto temp then boot it.
BE VERY CAREFULL the redline has been raised to 9200rpm.
Remove the two hex bolts, undo the 3 connectors use your nail or small screwdriver (be careful dont slip) they have a tab on them.
You'll probably need to ground the green/yellow wire pin 15 to the ECU bolt (refer to wiring diagram do a search on here) , i used a scotch lock onto the ECU wire and attached an O ring connector(crimped) that slid over the bolt.
J's is the best OEM plug in ECU.
Do the usual, let it learn idle for a few minutes, take it easy then when upto temp then boot it.
BE VERY CAREFULL the redline has been raised to 9200rpm.
Well i am almost sure that J's do custom mapping for each ECU according to each customer's specific mods. They do not have just one map like Mugen or Spoon so in that sense it is not exactly "plug n' play". Maybe you should check out with them before proceeding with the installation. No need to worry about the redline.
J's did, based on J's parts.
I'd worry about hitting the redline when changing gears/misshifting etc, but IMO i wouldnt take it to 9200rpm all the time thats 300 more than stock.
But TBH I'm not 100% sure if the engine can take constantly.
I'd worry about hitting the redline when changing gears/misshifting etc, but IMO i wouldnt take it to 9200rpm all the time thats 300 more than stock.
But TBH I'm not 100% sure if the engine can take constantly.
When you misdownshift there is no difference between OEM ECU and J's. I order for someone to be 100% on the safe side new retainers should be a good choice especially if the engine has lots of miles (there might be a weakened one). With new retainers you can rev it to 9200 rpm all day long!
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Yep a mis shift and you're buggered, nothing can save you!
Regarding the actual map, you are correct Taseas, they will customise your ECU for what modifications you have. But generally on NA mods it won't make a huge difference in terms of safety.
It is advisable to have all the breathing and cooling mods to get the best from it though. But that's
Regarding the actual map, you are correct Taseas, they will customise your ECU for what modifications you have. But generally on NA mods it won't make a huge difference in terms of safety.
It is advisable to have all the breathing and cooling mods to get the best from it though. But that's
Originally Posted by Paul_J,Sep 24 2009, 10:52 AM
how much are retainers and to have them replaced?
is that the same as hydraulic lifters on other cars being replaced?
is that the same as hydraulic lifters on other cars being replaced?

It's not a big job to do the retainers IIRC.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry12620168
I agree with Mark, as a minumum I'd have a decat and manifold mods wise.
Also Paul we tend to help each other on here and say thanks.
I dont know about the retainers but I'd do the springs too but not sure about the stock ones.
The ECU is good though.
Also Paul we tend to help each other on here and say thanks.
I dont know about the retainers but I'd do the springs too but not sure about the stock ones.
The ECU is good though.





