final question now (i think)..... whats the normal biting area on a 2k, 2000my? biting somewhere between 50-60% way up. car done 64k... it doesnt feel excessively high for the pedal travel, but it isnt like my other 2 honda's i've owned (92 civic & 95 'lude)

IF it is worn out, is it a nightmare of a job, or pretty easy and straight forward? i got mechanical knowledge and the job itself (rwd clutch) is easy, just wondering what it's like on the 2000... DIY job or worth getting it done pro?

finally picking up my new car tonight - i've had a grin on my face all day, and just cant wait to get it! weather is looking fine for the entire weekend too

 

I could be wrong, but it should always bite in the same point as it is a hydraulic clutch.

 

I read on a previous thread, that apparently letting the clutch out in 4th from a standstill is the way to tell is yr clutch is gone.. if it stalls, its ok.. if it slips and sets off, it ****ed!!

Jim

 

cable operated clutch's req adjusting to keep pressure on plate. hydraulic operated clutch's pedals do travel 'up' with wear. do the stall test, if it doesn't slip all o.k. but all clutch's wear differently depending on use by driver and type of driving e.g town work or motorway.
if you look underneath the car it is a normal r.w.d set up. prop, hydraulics, gear lever, bell housing.
eventhough i have not done an s2 clutch i have looked under mine to look what sort of job it would be. ( i regulary do 48t truck clutchs) it's the starter motor i wouldn't want to change.
dave.

 

clutch seems ok. it aint slipping on normal driving anyway, and nor when i give it some juice. ill have a PROPER look around this s2000 on sunday with some daylight see what it is/what it isnt fitted with and get a general feel of the mechanics... one think i have already found out is it has that 065 clutch, it has that infamous over-run rattle.

i'll let it progress. it's certainly drivable and possibly me just being over-weary

 

A rwd clutch is the easiest one to replace, but unfortunately not the case on the S2000. Where the block is situated so far back against the bulkhead for weight distribution, it means there's a set process for doing it. The engine must be lifted off it's mounts and shifted forwards and upwards, then supported. The 'box needs to be dropped down and backwards and the sub-frame needs to be dropped on the back edge, to enable access. There was a thread about it a while back IIRC. It was roughly a 6 hr book time at Honda to replace it. You may still want to have a go yourself, just bear in mind it's not as straight forward as it looks !

 

I agree Mr Wokka

recently done my clutch and altho it looked easy and didn't believe i needed to take off all the other parts detailed in the manual, in the end i did (mostly)

its acess thats the issue due to the engine position

wouldn't advise without a full lift (and plenty of ratchet extensions)!

NOT A JOB FOR THE FRONT DRIVE!

 

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