Evening all,

Had a pretty good day today changing over the brake hoses. Got the front calipers changed over and all the sliders pads greased and sorted. Sprayed abit of penetrating spray on the alignment adjusters so that its abit easier on dixon next saturday when he has a look over it for me.

Front brake hoses were easily undone using my flare nut spanner which i must add cost me a small fortune but it doesn't open up like the cheap ones when applying alot of pressure on the unions.

The drivers side rear was a non-starter thou. Spanner just wouldn't grip the union no matter what i tried. I tried heating it but to no avail. After putting the tools down for the day i looked online and alot of people recommend molegrips as the best solution to stubborn unions. I will give that a go but if not it looks like i will be cutting the pipe and reflaring the pipe. Doesn't look too hard to do based on the videos ive watched plus ive done pipe making before for high pressure air systems.

Anyone done this before? seems pretty straightforward from what ive seen. I assume Honda's are of the double flare type? Wouldnt be too keen on changing the whole section of pipe as from what ive read it means subframe lowering to get enough clearance.


First time ive used a pressure bleeder today and with it setup correctly it made the job much much easier. Seeing as i had to bleed a new caliper and brake lines i have a great pedal from the word go and it doesnt take much time at all to set it all up. This was my method of securing the universal cap and must say it worked very well!

 

I had a similar problem on my front brakes: Replacement of Front Brakes!

The experts all said heat was the answer, but I didn't change the hoses when I rebuilt the rear brakes.

 

Had the same thing a few weeks back when I fitted my lines. Mole grips sorted it....

 

The Honda hardlines are steel which is a trickier to flare than the common copper-nickel pipe used for replacements. Use a quality flaring tool and practice on pipe off the car first if you go that way - you're not likely to have enough pipe for more than one go.

-Brian.

 

cheers for that brian. Any reason why they chose steel over copper? I've decided i will give it a good spray with some plus gas and leave it until the summertime. Its one of those jobs where if i snap the hardline when using mole grips then its going to take alot longer to so best to do it when i have more time and hopefully better weather! Plus it will give me sometime to get used to flaring pipework.

 

Most OEM lines are painted steel. Probably cheaper. With practice, they flare fine - just tend to slip/move when forming the flare if you're not careful which ruins the flare.

-Brian.

 

It is purely down to cost that steel lines are used - the saving must be negligible considering the importance of brakes!

I can recommend the sealey pipe flaring kit - brilliant tool

http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-361854/s...ring-tool.html

I don't use it that much but to have one when you need it is priceless - it amazes me just how bad some of the cheap DIY brake pipe flaring kits are - mainly the butterfly type ones - they make bad flares even on soft cunifer pipe and damage the pipe where they grip it. I'm sure they work but I wouldnt fancy them on my car!

Brake bleeder looks effective, I have one somewhere but if i'm on my own I tend to use a length of 8mm silicone hose and a jam jar. Job done!