Wheels and Tires Discussion about wheels and tires for the S2000.
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Question for Jeff from Evolution

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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 11:20 AM
  #21  
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my style??? get real, your issues are with VOLK, not jeff. you should contact these issues with VOLK seeing that they are the ones that provided the hub centrics. VOLK sells these rims primary "as is" for street use, not race use. And in your case seeing that you do use it for race, you should pay out of your own pocket to "upgrade" . *THROWS MIC DOWN*
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 11:30 AM
  #22  
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I think there are a lot of people with these wheels, and some aluminium hub rings manufactured to spec would be of interest and not cost a whole lot. I would appreciate input from people who have access to such production capabilities.

Thanks.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 11:37 AM
  #23  
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that would be a great idea , when i start getting into the track scene more, than i would not have any issues buying these if available through Jeff.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 01:09 PM
  #24  
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I noticed the newer wheels came wit the plastic rings...but the 3 sets of various Volk wheels came with aluminum rings.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 01:10 PM
  #25  
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Doesn't Makin/Volk supply the aluminum version of these rings? I have a set of the aluminum ones that came with my GT-U's. I assumed that all the Volks came with the aluminum ones. Guess not?

-sam
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 01:47 PM
  #26  
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My Volk CE28n wheels (bought in May 2002) came with aluminum rings.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 02:04 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by xviper,Oct 16 2004, 10:19 PM
Not sure if Jeff has the time to check this forum. You should PM him using his profile in that other thread you asked this in. He will eventually see that post of yours there.
You can remove lugs using an impact wrench. You can ONLY use an impact wrench to put them on if you can set the torque on the wrench or use the proper range of "torque stick". It is better if you use a regular torque wrench to tighten lugs up.
As for the rings, I would think that if the rims came with them, they should be used.
i will be ordering a set of le28's next month through Jeff.

my ? is, what is the proper torque spec to tighten the lug nuts too on the volk rims?
also, will i recieve the alumnium hubcentric rings, or the plastic ones?

the hubcentric rings arn't a major concern for me, i just would like to have an understanding of what will be on my car. i intend to auto-x a few times this upcoming summer and do a few drag events also. i highly doubt i will use my volk rims though, ill probably just swap them with the stock rims for race events.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 02:27 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Guedo512,Oct 19 2004, 04:04 PM
i will be ordering a set of le28's next month through Jeff.

my ? is, what is the proper torque spec to tighten the lug nuts too on the volk rims?
also, will i recieve the alumnium hubcentric rings, or the plastic ones?

the hubcentric rings arn't a major concern for me, i just would like to have an understanding of what will be on my car. i intend to auto-x a few times this upcoming summer and do a few drag events also. i highly doubt i will use my volk rims though, ill probably just swap them with the stock rims for race events.
Lugnut torque is a function of the lugs on the car and not to do with what kind of wheel you put on. Thus, the OEM rating of 80 lb/ft still applies, although a few of us have gone to 90 just because 80 doesn't seem like it's enough for us. This is a personal choice and I can only advise you to go with the OEM requirement.

Some have already noted that they have not had any problems with NOT using these rings, however, for utmost protection, using them would be wise. I've got rims for my winter tires. They came with these rings. I've never used them in the 4 winters I've used these rims and have never had a problem. But then, winter driving does not stress rims like tracking does.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 03:36 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by xviper,Oct 19 2004, 05:27 PM
Lugnut torque is a function of the lugs on the car and not to do with what kind of wheel you put on. Thus, the OEM rating of 80 lb/ft still applies, although a few of us have gone to 90 just because 80 doesn't seem like it's enough for us. This is a personal choice and I can only advise you to go with the OEM requirement.

Some have already noted that they have not had any problems with NOT using these rings, however, for utmost protection, using them would be wise. I've got rims for my winter tires. They came with these rings. I've never used them in the 4 winters I've used these rims and have never had a problem. But then, winter driving does not stress rims like tracking does.
you learn something new every day.

before i would just use a breaker bar to get the lug nuts as tight as possible on my car. i did this once. do you think their is any damage? im only about 105lbs, so my force is minimal.

for now on im torquing them to 80 ft lbs.
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 03:53 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Guedo512,Oct 19 2004, 05:36 PM
you learn something new every day.

before i would just use a breaker bar to get the lug nuts as tight as possible on my car. i did this once. do you think their is any damage? im only about 105lbs, so my force is minimal.

for now on im torquing them to 80 ft lbs.
How long was the breaker bar will determine how much torque you were able to apply to the nut using all your strength and weight. For example, if you had a 2 foot long breaker bar and you put all your weight on it (not saying this is what you did), you could conceivably put over 200 lb/ft of torque on that nut. You obviously didn't as this would have snapped those studs off by now.
I'm only going to guess that you were able to apply far more than the required 80 lb/ft. The problem is that with too much torque, you will have stretched the threads on the lug. If this is so, then 80 lb/ft may not be enough to do the job for you now. You can "very roughly" test how much torque is on there from your last tightening. Put a big torque wrench on one of the nuts and slowly apply torque (to screw it on). Go up to 80. Does it move? If it doesn't, keep going to 90, then 100, BUT NOT MORE. If it does not move by 100, you may have caused too much stud stretching. What to do then? Well, let's not fret too much for the time being till you find out what's happened.
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