zeroptzero

Indy, just curious about one thing. Have you changed your sparkplugs in recent years ?. The reason I ask is that when I bought my car a month ago (MY02 with 55,000 miles) we had to emmissions test it prior to purchase/sale. My car ran at the very limit for hydrocarbons, which I take to be unburned fuel for the most part. Upon getting the car I checked the plugs and they were pretty worn out at 55k, gaps were well over .050" due to erosion of the center electrode. I think that was the main reason for my unburned fuel, I also believe that my pcv valve was crapping out too. I swapped in fresh plugs and a new pcv valve. I also ran a bottle of Redline fuel treatment through it along with some Lucas UCL prior to switching to my fav oil. I have yet to re-test it, but the car feels like it is running much better in it's current state.

INDYMAC

JFUSION, I've enjoyed reading your posts about your new S2K. You are a quick study and I'm sure you will be happy with the results.

In hindsight, I probably should have done a Blackstone analysis on this sample too. I've done that before on a G35 and it was interesting. I expect to stay with Dyson from now on with this car, since I consider it a keeper.

The plugs were changed, IAC/TB/MAF cleaned when the valves were adjusted at 41K. The OEM air filter replaced the K&N at 44K. The PCV was changed around 27K, and I just changed it again the other day.

Unfortunately, fuel dilution is an issue for most cars these days (especially with DI engines). I attribute some it to driving style for both me and my wife. Our town is only 3 miles away, so all the short trips we make adds up for start-up fuel that doesn't get evaporated often enough. I try to make an effort to take the long way on some back country roads in the S. Maybe I just need to try harder. The only thing I can think of that might be worth changing are the O2 sensors. They aren't throwing any codes, but maybe they're shot already.

I have a fill of GC in it now that will last me about a year. After that, who knows? Maybe I'll just stay with it, or try something else. I expect to test the oil again in 15K (3 years) though, just to see how the engine is working.

I'm still debating whether to change the air filter back to K&N. I probably will.

I can't really discuss too much about what Terry says. But he does say that this is an engine you want to keep clean of any deposits everywhere.

zeroptzero

thanks for the kind words Indymac. It looks like you're doing everything right on the fuel issue. I also thought about the O2 sensors possibly going south on my car with the hydrocarbon issue, but I haven't done much with that. I should probably just recheck the emmissions again and see if it has improved before condemning the 02 sensors. I know the cars run pretty rich, my rear bumper gets lots of soot on it after any sort of drive.

If Terry says to keep the engine as clean as possible then I'd certainly take his advice, that is good to know. I personally prefer the factory air filter over aftermarket filters, but the K&N doesn't seem to be working too bad, I've seen them work worse than that in ohter applications.

I've followed your posts and UOA's over at BITOG, my screen name over there is JSRT4 in case we cross paths over there in the future. Keep up the good work !

Kirpich

This test was not BS. It was very actual for our engines. The F20C engine has 3 very well-known issues:

1. TCT.
2. Scored #1 cyl (or is it #4?) b/c of piston slap.
3. Spun bearings on mains (especially with F/I crowd).

1. is easy. Don't use Mobil 1.
2. and 3. are what affected by the very issue that was tested in this comparo.
Our main bearings are not of ball- or needle- type. They are journal- type, they work by sliding against 2 flat, polished surfaces. Exactly what the comparo tested.

INDYMAC

Some interesting theories, but a little hard for me to follow. This is a F22 engine. I've made several changes since this report.

-I'm currently using LE 8130 (10W-30) engine oil.
-AFE Pro Dry air filter instead of OEM.
-LE L-X 2300 and LCD's FP+ fuel adds instead of MMO.

We'll see what happens on the next report.

zeroptzero

Keep the reports coming Indymac, I look forward to the comparisons. I'm building a theory that thicker motor oils result in higher iron wear on the S2K based on some UOA's of 40 weights and now your GC (which is almost a thin 40 weight). I'm running Amsoil 5w30 this season and I'll have a UOA to compare it with my previous 5w40 run, I'll see if my theory holds up or not, he, he.

INDYMAC

JFUSION,

It's great to have theories isn't it? I predict that yours will lead you all over the place though. My thoughts are leaning towards total chemistry of the formula and how that chemistry relates to neutralizing contaminants and dispersion, AW capability before ZDDP becomes effective from enough heat, and corrosion inhibitors (probably creates the most Fe readings on UOA's from ethanol fuels). SN/GF-5 oils are supposed to be addressing these battles, but we'll see. I'm looking at an HDEO to go to war with right now (8130).

If your theory proves untrue and you are not quite satisfied with ASL, why not try their ACD next? There are still many in the industry that think monogrades are the gold standard. ACD looks like a good one!

Jack

zeroptzero

Indy, I have to agree with you in that most of my theories rarely have panned out, so I won't be surprised if this one if it doesn't as well, he, he, he, lol. My 5w40 sample had 11ppm of iron in 3500 miles but it sat in the sump for an entire winter before use in the summer season and I read an opinion that some of the iron comes from just sitting in the engine as opposed to actual wear, so that could explain part of it. Oil can be a very confusing subject, best not to theorize about, but I still do, lol.

I chose to try 5w30 based on a really nice UOA report I seen on here a few months back from another member. Also, reading some of Dr. Haas' opinions, so I thought a nice 5w30 might have some benefits. I was surprised to learn that oil at room temperature is still pretty thick and an engine benefits from fast oil flow on start-up, so I'll give the 5w30 a shot.