o_O S2000 | Mk I — Stage II
05-29-2015, 07:37 AM
#1913
Moderator
I know you already replaced it but this could've been an option? : http://www.nengun.com/car-garage-ami...0-shift-collar
05-29-2015, 09:27 AM
#1914
Thread Starter
Yeah I considered that piece but I am happy with what new OEM pieces have done for the shift lever. Feezy does that piece just replaced the small lower collar?
05-31-2015, 03:58 AM
#1915
Thread Starter
With the help of my friend Mike (nos4you) I was able to get my hardtop adjusted pretty nicely. It's pretty easy to adjust really. I found the best method was to first focus on the rear and then move to the front. I got some tips from my friend and also looked through the Helms manual for some suggestions and sort of just played around for awhile to come up with a solution that worked well for me:
1. Unlatch the front and rear latches and loosen all the mounting hardware on the rear latches.
2. Next adjust the side to side fit so the hardtop sits on the car evenly. Then jiggling the latch levers slightly open and closed to make sure the latches are sitting nice and even in the catchers, and then tightening up the 2 lower latch bolts on each side.
3. Next it is important to make sure the hardtop is sitting at the right height and far enough forward to seat well against the windshield frame rubber. After a few attempts I found the best way to do this is to unlatch the front and the rear latches. With the front latches make sure to "re-latch" it back onto itself so the hook doesn't interfere with the adjustment process. With the rear 3 upper bolts loose on the rear latches I also slightly loosened the bolts that hold the front latches to the hardtop so there was a tiny bit more play there.
4. Next I pulled the hardtop forward and got each top front corner sitting nicely against the windshield rubber at a height I liked.
5. Because most of the weight is at the rear with the glass, the hardtop naturally sort of adjusts itself to sit as low as it can while the rear hardware is loosened as it is adjusted, so I found the rear height to naturally sort itself out pretty well, but the front height is also sort of controlled by how far the hardtop is adjusted forward. Once I had it sitting nicely against the windshield frame I carefully tightened 2 of the 3 main rear latch bolts on each side.
6. Next I re-latched the front latches (with the mounting screws still very slightly loose). Once they were latched I tightened up the screws on the front latches and made sure they were still sitting nicely up against the strikers.
7. Finally I finished tightening down all of the rear hardware.
It's a very good idea to pull off the side plastics and leave them off for awhile while you go for test drives over a few days to makes sure everything is sitting well. It took me quite a few adjustments to get everything sitting in a way that I liked. Knowing what I know now I could adjust another top pretty quickly I think. I definitely found the most important thing to focus on is how the front section of the top sits on the window frame as I mentioned. Everything else sort of worked out naturally with the rear hardware loose. Once everything is adjusted nicely, make sure to use a paint marker or something to clearly mark the rear hardware so you can easily get it back in place if you every need to disassemble anything.
I also made sure to lube up all of the hardtop and windshield rubber with Shin-etsu grease to make sure everything seals up well. This hardtop didn't actually have the rear little brackets with rubber stoppers so I ordered some new ones and installed them as well as some of the little rubber spacers that go on the soft top frame while I still have it on the car. Doing that definitely helped minimize some of the small rattles you get from the soft top riding along in the back. I am guessing the top I purchased came off of a CR at some point because it didn't just have those rubber bumper brackets removed, it had the small little delete brackets on there that are on the CR hardtops from the factory. I am going to leave the side interior panels off the top until I can have the PDR guy take a look at the top and hopefully work his magic. All of the dents that are on the top are on the sides or upper corners and it looks like there is actually enough openings to allow someone to get the PDR tools in there.
Looking forward to getting the PDR taken care of so I can have my friend Jason (who helped with coating the wheels) do his detailing and paint correction magic. Over the past week I sort of got really fascinated with the detailing process after coming across a few interesting videos from a great detailer named Larry of AMMO NYC. Highly recommend checking out his videos even if you aren't interested in the top because you probably will be afterwards. I ordered a lot of stuff to try out and come up with a car washing setup that will be much safer and do a better job to protect and maintain the paint over time. I think I will have a go at claying the car before leaving it with Jason to do his thing as it seems like it is the most gratifying part of the detailing process to me.
1. Unlatch the front and rear latches and loosen all the mounting hardware on the rear latches.
2. Next adjust the side to side fit so the hardtop sits on the car evenly. Then jiggling the latch levers slightly open and closed to make sure the latches are sitting nice and even in the catchers, and then tightening up the 2 lower latch bolts on each side.
3. Next it is important to make sure the hardtop is sitting at the right height and far enough forward to seat well against the windshield frame rubber. After a few attempts I found the best way to do this is to unlatch the front and the rear latches. With the front latches make sure to "re-latch" it back onto itself so the hook doesn't interfere with the adjustment process. With the rear 3 upper bolts loose on the rear latches I also slightly loosened the bolts that hold the front latches to the hardtop so there was a tiny bit more play there.
4. Next I pulled the hardtop forward and got each top front corner sitting nicely against the windshield rubber at a height I liked.
5. Because most of the weight is at the rear with the glass, the hardtop naturally sort of adjusts itself to sit as low as it can while the rear hardware is loosened as it is adjusted, so I found the rear height to naturally sort itself out pretty well, but the front height is also sort of controlled by how far the hardtop is adjusted forward. Once I had it sitting nicely against the windshield frame I carefully tightened 2 of the 3 main rear latch bolts on each side.
6. Next I re-latched the front latches (with the mounting screws still very slightly loose). Once they were latched I tightened up the screws on the front latches and made sure they were still sitting nicely up against the strikers.
7. Finally I finished tightening down all of the rear hardware.
It's a very good idea to pull off the side plastics and leave them off for awhile while you go for test drives over a few days to makes sure everything is sitting well. It took me quite a few adjustments to get everything sitting in a way that I liked. Knowing what I know now I could adjust another top pretty quickly I think. I definitely found the most important thing to focus on is how the front section of the top sits on the window frame as I mentioned. Everything else sort of worked out naturally with the rear hardware loose. Once everything is adjusted nicely, make sure to use a paint marker or something to clearly mark the rear hardware so you can easily get it back in place if you every need to disassemble anything.
I also made sure to lube up all of the hardtop and windshield rubber with Shin-etsu grease to make sure everything seals up well. This hardtop didn't actually have the rear little brackets with rubber stoppers so I ordered some new ones and installed them as well as some of the little rubber spacers that go on the soft top frame while I still have it on the car. Doing that definitely helped minimize some of the small rattles you get from the soft top riding along in the back. I am guessing the top I purchased came off of a CR at some point because it didn't just have those rubber bumper brackets removed, it had the small little delete brackets on there that are on the CR hardtops from the factory. I am going to leave the side interior panels off the top until I can have the PDR guy take a look at the top and hopefully work his magic. All of the dents that are on the top are on the sides or upper corners and it looks like there is actually enough openings to allow someone to get the PDR tools in there.
Looking forward to getting the PDR taken care of so I can have my friend Jason (who helped with coating the wheels) do his detailing and paint correction magic. Over the past week I sort of got really fascinated with the detailing process after coming across a few interesting videos from a great detailer named Larry of AMMO NYC. Highly recommend checking out his videos even if you aren't interested in the top because you probably will be afterwards. I ordered a lot of stuff to try out and come up with a car washing setup that will be much safer and do a better job to protect and maintain the paint over time. I think I will have a go at claying the car before leaving it with Jason to do his thing as it seems like it is the most gratifying part of the detailing process to me.
The following users liked this post:
kos (07-24-2021)
05-31-2015, 08:00 AM
#1916
Ah yes Larry's videos are great! Both his /Drive Clean series and his own AMMO channel on Youtube. I've bought his interior regimen, which I wanted to try out. The leather conditioner smells heavenly! In the end I like the fact his techniques can be applied using any products as well. For the exterior Jason's paint correction and nano coating has me doing very little to up keep the paint. Mostly just using a 2 bucket method with ONR washing solution at a coin up car wash. It helps that this one also using compressed air to blow all the water off so as not to accidentally introduce swirl marks while drying.
I'd suggest not buying any of his tools (microfiber towels and his brushes) as they're really marked up in price. His latest video about microfiber a gives you a general idea of what type of towel to buy. The brushes I found at a online store at fraction of what he's asking for.
I'd suggest not buying any of his tools (microfiber towels and his brushes) as they're really marked up in price. His latest video about microfiber a gives you a general idea of what type of towel to buy. The brushes I found at a online store at fraction of what he's asking for.
05-31-2015, 11:53 AM
#1917
Such a detailed build. Now I gotta go adjust my oem hard top. Btw got a part number for the rear bracket? One of mine is missing the rubber stopper..
05-31-2015, 12:06 PM
#1918
Thread Starter
Ah yes Larry's videos are great! Both his /Drive Clean series and his own AMMO channel on Youtube. I've bought his interior regimen, which I wanted to try out. The leather conditioner smells heavenly! In the end I like the fact his techniques can be applied using any products as well. For the exterior Jason's paint correction and nano coating has me doing very little to up keep the paint. Mostly just using a 2 bucket method with ONR washing solution at a coin up car wash. It helps that this one also using compressed air to blow all the water off so as not to accidentally introduce swirl marks while drying.
I'd suggest not buying any of his tools (microfiber towels and his brushes) as they're really marked up in price. His latest video about microfiber a gives you a general idea of what type of towel to buy. The brushes I found at a online store at fraction of what he's asking for.
I'd suggest not buying any of his tools (microfiber towels and his brushes) as they're really marked up in price. His latest video about microfiber a gives you a general idea of what type of towel to buy. The brushes I found at a online store at fraction of what he's asking for.
Good to hear that the coating has been working well. I have been planning with just going with an ONR solution at a DIY wash. I already have quite a bit of stuff and a few things I decided I wanted to try out so I am pretty much good to go as far as cleaning tools and microfiber is concerned.
05-31-2015, 12:10 PM
#1919
Thread Starter
The stopper only is 74812-S3A-J10
If you need the bracket as well it comes with the rubber stopper already installed.
Part Number: 85400-S2A-010
Part: BRACKET, R. RR. WINDSHIELD
Part Number: 85450-S2A-010
Part: BRACKET, L. RR. WINDSHIELD
05-31-2015, 12:15 PM
#1920
Thank You!
Just needed one rubber stopper.
Just needed one rubber stopper.