Found this online Protection Status LEDs: There is a LED array on the amp that lights green when the amp is on and working properly and lights orange when protection is activated. When the amp first powers up, the LEDs will light orange (until the amplifier finishes a system check), then will light green.

Protection Circuitry: Five levels of protection that monitor the amp and will shut it down if:

1. the electrical system drops below 10V
2. the electrical system voltage exceeds 15.5V
3. the amplifier's temperature exceeds 194 degrees (90 degrees Celsius)
4. there is a shorted speaker/speaker lead
5. current draw exceeds product specifications


I guess its something with the car giving or taking power??? I have an optima Yellow top battery, about a month old if that makes a difference.

 

You still having problems?

How is the amp getting power. describe your hookup.
Does the amp need grounding?
How is the HU connected to the sub? Are you using the HU on/off wire to turn the amp on/off?

call me on my cell if you want to talk about it further. I'm back in St. Louis

 

Yes I am

The amp is powered by a 4 guage rockford cable, it runs from the battery to cabin, behind the driver seat and too the trunk.

The amp has a secure ground as far as I know, I have tried multiple spots and ended up grounding it to the rear upper sway bar.

The HU is connected with Rockford premium RCA cables. I am turning it on and off with a remote wire. I wired it into the blue wire coming from the HU.

I dont understand how it works with the key in on position but it does not with the car running. Do I need an alternator?


Hope you had a good trip and sorry for bothering you, I forgot you were in Jamaica.

I may be calling you, do you have a volt meter? I would like to swing by and check the power coming from the alternator if it is o.k.

 

I do have a volt meter and will be home until 4:00 if you ant to swing by now?

I think your alternator should be fine otherwise you would be having other problems also. To check... is to get the car idling, then pull off the power cable to the battery. If the car starts to die or dies, then the atlernator is shot. Are you having starting issues?

 

I am off work at 1:30. I can come by on the way home.

I will try the test at your home. I am not having any starting issues. I was just wondering if I need a bigger alternator. I could do this right now--->

 

I was told that I do not need a bigger alternator.

This was a response in the electronics forum

if you disconnect the speaker wires at the amp and it still goes into
protect mode, it can't be #4 or #5, which it's unlikely to be anyway if
it only happens when the car is running. Best bet is to get a multimeter
and check the voltage between the amp's power and ground terminals,
(by putting the multimeter's red (+) probe on the power (+) terminal,
and the black (-) probe on the ground terminal) both with the car running
and without. Voltage with the car off should be 12 - 12.5v, and with the
car running 13 - 15v. If it's higher than that, you probably have a bad
voltage regulator. If much lower, bad alternator, bad wiring, or slipping belt.
No you don't need a larger alternator.

 

Problem solved! Mike, Thanks you for allowing me to do the voltage tests at your home yesterday.

I bought a Diamond 400watt amp today and everything is working like a charm. Here is a pic with the spare tire cover off.

 

welcome back from the tropics, 8BALL & SheryO!