New owner, have questions
#1
New owner, have questions
Hi guys, just bought a 01 S2000 with around 160,000 km (~100,000 miles) here in Canada. Mechanically, the car is mint and underneath it's like it came off the assembly line (no corrosion). A few oil leaks, the usual, VTEC solenoid gasket. A few mods, unfortunately, an intake that sits very low (which I hate) and an HKS exhaust, which I don't mind. I won't say I got a great deal, but it wasn't a bad deal, it's a car I've wanted for a long time. Money is replaceable, S2000s aren't, so I pulled the trigger. Besides, the value seems to be rising on them.
The only weird issue I noticed is the RPM dropping a little too low when pushing in the clutch after a high rev of 5000+. Stalled once even. Turns out the spark plugs are incorrect, OEM ones on order. I'm also aware these AP1 models have a light flywheel so there's no inertia to carry when the clutch is pushed in. I also cleaned the TB, which wasn't very dirty but hopefully the plugs solve the bogging issue. Overall it drives great and the engine is pristine, I can read the writing on the pistons with my borescope camera, no carbon build up what-so-ever, how?!
So my question is what I should look for. Research dictates I should remove the valve cover at take a look at the valve retainers for cracks. I have no service history but was informed all fluids were flushed but I'll still do the diffs and engine oil. The brake fluid is a little darker than I like so I might change that too.
So hello all from the world of Subaru, glad to be part of the fun. Although relatively slow and impractical compared to my modded WRX, I'll forever be a Honda guy, this is a car I want to keep stock as, unlike Subaru, the manufacturer got it right. Any guidance is appreciated. Hope I'm posting in the right place to kill two birds with one stone, introduce myself and acquire guidance on what I should do before I go VTECing at ridiculous engine speeds.
Thanks.
The only weird issue I noticed is the RPM dropping a little too low when pushing in the clutch after a high rev of 5000+. Stalled once even. Turns out the spark plugs are incorrect, OEM ones on order. I'm also aware these AP1 models have a light flywheel so there's no inertia to carry when the clutch is pushed in. I also cleaned the TB, which wasn't very dirty but hopefully the plugs solve the bogging issue. Overall it drives great and the engine is pristine, I can read the writing on the pistons with my borescope camera, no carbon build up what-so-ever, how?!
So my question is what I should look for. Research dictates I should remove the valve cover at take a look at the valve retainers for cracks. I have no service history but was informed all fluids were flushed but I'll still do the diffs and engine oil. The brake fluid is a little darker than I like so I might change that too.
So hello all from the world of Subaru, glad to be part of the fun. Although relatively slow and impractical compared to my modded WRX, I'll forever be a Honda guy, this is a car I want to keep stock as, unlike Subaru, the manufacturer got it right. Any guidance is appreciated. Hope I'm posting in the right place to kill two birds with one stone, introduce myself and acquire guidance on what I should do before I go VTECing at ridiculous engine speeds.
Thanks.
#2
Preventive maintenance is always a good idea and the valve retainers should be at least checked and probably replaced with the AP2 versions while you're going to the trouble. Same with a valve clearance adjustment. A morning's work. New spark plugs come gapped with anti-seize on the threads. Torque to 24lb-ft. Should be photo essays and videos in the library (here). There's also a complete maintenance guide.
Complete change of fluids will give you a good base line. I'd have an oil analysis run on the engine oil for baseline purposes as well. Brake and coolant is on a time rather than mileage basis. Getting the air out of the coolant is a long process but keep at it. Everyone has a favorite engine and gearbox oil. Note the differential uses hypoid gear oil, not Honda differential oil which will ruin the unit.
I fitted the Billman Gen-X timing chain tensioner as preventive maintenance when I bought my 2006 car 3 summers ago. Not a question of "if" the OEM unit will fail but "when."
-- Chuck
Complete change of fluids will give you a good base line. I'd have an oil analysis run on the engine oil for baseline purposes as well. Brake and coolant is on a time rather than mileage basis. Getting the air out of the coolant is a long process but keep at it. Everyone has a favorite engine and gearbox oil. Note the differential uses hypoid gear oil, not Honda differential oil which will ruin the unit.
I fitted the Billman Gen-X timing chain tensioner as preventive maintenance when I bought my 2006 car 3 summers ago. Not a question of "if" the OEM unit will fail but "when."
-- Chuck
#3
Administrator
My guesses would be to clean out the IACV and do a MAP whack + zip tie. You might also look through What to look for when buying a used S2000 / just bought a used S2000.
Welcome and good luck!
Welcome and good luck!
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Daleblakely
S2000 Engine Management
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