F24 Build
It's up and running!!!! Its running really really rough but it's running! I was so nervous starting it for the first time and I actually thought it wasn't going to start cause the idle was set too low. Then once that was adjusted it was really loud and, being paranoid, I thought it might be knocking but it was valvetrain noise. Now that the lash has been adjusted it's a lot quieter. I'm going to be even more on edge Monday when I drive it to be tuned.
Still subscribed and glad you got it running. Can't wait to see the results!
To help answer some questions previously mentioned:
K24 flywheel will not work with S2k clutch because the K flywheel friction surface is larger in diameter and overall the spacing of the flywheel is also different than the F20/22C. F20/22C pressure plates are pull style pressure plates unlike K's push style. This directly affects the design of the pressure plate as well as the flywheel. I do not recommend drilling and tapping any holes to mate any flywheel/clutch combo without determining exact hole and dowel alignments and balancing the whole system. Too much of a safety risk.
There's not much machining needed to use the S flywheel. The only part of the crank that needed to be machined to match the S2k flywheel is the lip on the backside of the crank.
FRM overbore:
If you look at the Honda Manual you will find overbore specs on the F20/22 it's max is .25mm = .01inch. This tolerance has been the same since Honda's first FRM block the H22. In order to do this right you can't use standard honing tools that most machine shops use for iron sleeves. Find a machine shop that does FRM. You'll have a better chance finding them at BMW or Prosche specialized places. And follow Honda's boring instructions.
To help answer some questions previously mentioned:
K24 flywheel will not work with S2k clutch because the K flywheel friction surface is larger in diameter and overall the spacing of the flywheel is also different than the F20/22C. F20/22C pressure plates are pull style pressure plates unlike K's push style. This directly affects the design of the pressure plate as well as the flywheel. I do not recommend drilling and tapping any holes to mate any flywheel/clutch combo without determining exact hole and dowel alignments and balancing the whole system. Too much of a safety risk.
There's not much machining needed to use the S flywheel. The only part of the crank that needed to be machined to match the S2k flywheel is the lip on the backside of the crank.
FRM overbore:
If you look at the Honda Manual you will find overbore specs on the F20/22 it's max is .25mm = .01inch. This tolerance has been the same since Honda's first FRM block the H22. In order to do this right you can't use standard honing tools that most machine shops use for iron sleeves. Find a machine shop that does FRM. You'll have a better chance finding them at BMW or Prosche specialized places. And follow Honda's boring instructions.
Originally Posted by BlackTrax,Apr 5 2008, 11:55 PM
Still subscribed and glad you got it running. Can't wait to see the results!
To help answer some questions previously mentioned:
K24 flywheel will not work with S2k clutch because the K flywheel friction surface is larger in diameter and overall the spacing of the flywheel is also different than the F20/22C. F20/22C pressure plates are pull style pressure plates unlike K's push style. This directly affects the design of the pressure plate as well as the flywheel. I do not recommend drilling and tapping any holes to mate any flywheel/clutch combo without determining exact hole and dowel alignments and balancing the whole system. Too much of a safety risk.
There's not much machining needed to use the S flywheel. The only part of the crank that needed to be machined to match the S2k flywheel is the lip on the backside of the crank.
FRM overbore:
If you look at the Honda Manual you will find overbore specs on the F20/22 it's max is .25mm = .01inch. This tolerance has been the same since Honda's first FRM block the H22. In order to do this right you can't use standard honing tools that most machine shops use for iron sleeves. Find a machine shop that does FRM. You'll have a better chance finding them at BMW or Prosche specialized places. And follow Honda's boring instructions.
To help answer some questions previously mentioned:
K24 flywheel will not work with S2k clutch because the K flywheel friction surface is larger in diameter and overall the spacing of the flywheel is also different than the F20/22C. F20/22C pressure plates are pull style pressure plates unlike K's push style. This directly affects the design of the pressure plate as well as the flywheel. I do not recommend drilling and tapping any holes to mate any flywheel/clutch combo without determining exact hole and dowel alignments and balancing the whole system. Too much of a safety risk.
There's not much machining needed to use the S flywheel. The only part of the crank that needed to be machined to match the S2k flywheel is the lip on the backside of the crank.
FRM overbore:
If you look at the Honda Manual you will find overbore specs on the F20/22 it's max is .25mm = .01inch. This tolerance has been the same since Honda's first FRM block the H22. In order to do this right you can't use standard honing tools that most machine shops use for iron sleeves. Find a machine shop that does FRM. You'll have a better chance finding them at BMW or Prosche specialized places. And follow Honda's boring instructions.
Thanks for the reply... I figured that much when I tried to compare the 2 flywheels and clutches.. I'm still not certain on the lip that needs to be machined.. From the pics looks like the center lip.. Is that it? I'll guess I'll have to take a look when I have the 2 cranks out side by side.
I'm hoping to get my build going soon within the next month or so.. Just have to gather up some parts. I think I'm going to run the AEM instead.. Just don't feel like spending so much for the Hondata.. nor doing all the work to convert.. Any feedback on tuning of the AEM?



