Thats a lot of work! Good Luck

 

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll try swapping cams to see if that calms things down and keep you all posted.

 

Keep up the good.. I'm patiently waiting for some results.

I finally got a pic of what the K24 crank looks like.. I see what you meant about the lip on the crank..

 

Yes! Finally a picture of this lip! I still don't know what happened to the pic I took. If you don't mind, I'm going to dl your pic and reupload it to the beginning of this thread as a comparison. Lmk

 

By all means... I don't mind at all... afterall this forum is all about sharing and helping others.. I'm just doing my part. It's least I can do after learning so much from your build. You've inspired me to do my own build as well.. I actually gathered most of the parts. Wish me luck...

 

 

Thanks dude. And good luck.

 

My oem cams are back in but since it's late, I'm going to wait til tomorrow to set the lash and button it up. Then I'll find out if it's the cams. One note though, I found a video on K20A.org showing the chain slap caused by cams, like mine, so prior to pulling the S2 cams I turned the engine over a couple times to watch for tensioner movement. And there was a lot of tensioner movement or in other words, the tensioner would have a lot of slack to eat up at certain points. This is much more pronounced than when I turned it over with the stock cams. More to come.

 

Back to question about the EMS... Will the Greddy Ulitmate do the job? What about the basic E-Manage... Cause I have one on hand... .. Would that be good enough for such a build? I'm still debating about AEM or Ultimate. I already have a K-Pro for my K20.. So. I want to try something different. I'm leaning towards Ultimate for the price, but not going to cheap out if it won't do the job.

 

For a clean tune you need to go with Kpro, AEM EMS or another standalone. I highly recommend Kpro. With proper tuning Kpro can make this engine run seamless. To my knowledge, no other system has separate low cam/hi cam maps for fuel and timing (but it would be possible to use the map switch feature on other systems to make this work).

Piggybacks are piggybacks AFC's, FIC's, Emanage, Emanage ultimate etc will only allow you to pull/add fuel and only pull timing. Also the tune is only effective at open loop. Most of your daily driving is in closed loop. Piggybacks don't work well when you change values in closed loop. Common issues are poor startup, poor idle, car jerks at a given rpm, horrible gas mileage etc.