what itb system do you have?

48mm throttle $2875.00 USD
50mm throttle $2975.00 USD
50mm throttle dual injector/port $3875.00 USD

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkAFTYoyK2U

 

yeahok.

Headwork supports the ITB's. Valves, springs, retainers, port/polish (if done correctly yeilds gains). Stroker kits are also an option.

You can get into cams, but their hasn't been a set for the s2000 yet that makes power.

EMS isnt a supporting mod for ITB's IMO because its required to run EMS so the ITB's will function properly.

You have to look into alot of things before you take the ITB plunge, theirs alot to learn.

 

Porting will give you NOTHING and just hurt your powerband. Minor cleanup at most. As I have stated before, all of the power to be made in this head with the grinder is made in the chamber. DO NOT port this head if you wish to make peak NA power. The ports are already too large for emissions/fuel consumption purposes. Without a fairly signifiant increase in compression larger valves will also not be of any use. People spend tons of money on fancy pants internals and head work and dont make ANY power.

There is a pretty basic formula for making this enigne work NA.

Let it breathe: Open intake path. ITBs or a proper common plenum will do wonders. The more restrictions you can eliminate before the intake ports the better. Don't get sucked into fancy intake setups. Spend your money on either the biggest throttle body you can fit or increaes your plenum volume. Rule of thumb on plenums is you either make your plenum large and your TB small, or visa versa. Bigger is not always better. Anything before the TB is just a restriction. Velocity stack on the factory TB will KILL any cheese dick intake you are gonna buy from JDM land.

Proper cam grind: run a camshaft that is designed to maximize this engines strengths and minimize its weaknesses, this does not mean run the biggest thing that fits. It wants a more agressive exhaust cam then it does an intake cam.

Run a proper header: The OE header is quite good for a factory piece but keep in mind the cat has to be a certian distance from the head to light off properly. The header REALLY needs to be longer everywhere, the primaries need to be longer, the secondaries need to be longer. Contrary to popular belief you CAN go to big on the piping diameters for the same reason you can go too big on the intake and more often the exhaust ports. Mismatched pairing is good, this helps sustain high exhaust gas velocity.

Getting the header right is VERY difficult. Pairing, diameter of piping, stage length and collector design all have to be PERFECTLY optimized for the application. Anything off the shelf will be compromised and anything that is factory header length will ALWAYS be leaving power on the table no matter how it is designed, some more then others.

Exhaust, big is good, bigger is better, too big is just right: This engine really wants to elminate right after the collector. It doesn't even want an exhaust system. (NOTE: this only applies once you have fixed the header, induction and cam grinds.) Much like a full on Toyota Atlantic engine, anything after the header is just a restriction. This is one of the few modifications on this engine where bigger is better. Run the biggest exhaust you can, you will make power power, better yet, run no exhaust at all.

As much compression as you can get away with: There is a point in the tuning of this engine where you will hit a soft cealing. Once you have it sucking and blowing efficently you will find that it just begs for more compression. Everything else you have done, if done properly will benefit tremendously from the compression bump.

Factory stroke: I will not go into why I have issues with messing with this because all it will do is start a flame war. Needless to say, you can make all the power and then some of these stroker kits on a 2.1-2.2 without stressing anything. Piston speed is FAR more dangerous then engine speed will ever be. The block, girdle, crank, rods and bearing journals are burly as **** on this engine. Don't under estimate them. The most powerful NA F20C in the world does it with 2.1L .

Tuning, you need it: Yes, once you have gone balls out on your F20C/F22C intelligently you will need tuning. I will not even waste my time or yours going into this deeper because anyone approaching any of the above to make the MOST power is completely aware of this.

 

The statement given above is very true.The intake ports on the s2000 do not need to be touched. Also oversized valves are not needed as they disturb the velocity in the head. I know this because I have tested a fully worked head that flows great but is not designed for NA use. What we want is increased flow with increased velocity. A very fine balance is needed for producing High NA numbers.I too have the same opinion about the stroker kits and hope to show the same numbers can be made without all the stroke.

 

someone mentioned that you need to mod the itbs in order to keep ac/heater, anyone here running the itbs and still been able to keep climate?

 

I never said that more supporting mods internally wouldn't help.

I said you definitely do not NEED them.
IMO picking up 30-40HP in the midrange is a pretty strong testament to that.

Its pretty obvious that the the more modifications you do the more you are going to benefit from the ITB setup.

Me personally I dont want a stroker, I dont want to do any headwork and I would pretty much rather not open the engine. Even still I could get an enormous benefit from a nice setup like this which is why I am looking into it.

 

Both the TWM and the Hayward/Jenvy setup allow you to keep your heater and AC. Although you can remove both of them if you so choose.

 

Proper cams will give you more gains then ANY headwork ever will on this engine. The Hytech cams work. I've had several versions of them on the dyno and even the first grinds we installed made more then twice what the most agressive Toda cam setup gained and that was a very MILD grind. Getting the phasing and ramp are far more crucial and difficult to get right then lift and duration. The Hytech cams prove this out quite conclusively. They are by far the only camshafts that give you real gains.

 

A set of cams would really be the only thing I would open the top for.