NA: ITB's
Originally Posted by lawerence,May 7 2007, 06:38 AM
A set of cams would really be the only thing I would open the top for. 
Originally Posted by MINES13,May 7 2007, 06:19 AM
Both the TWM and the Hayward/Jenvy setup allow you to keep your heater and AC. Although you can remove both of them if you so choose.
Originally Posted by 240sxer,May 7 2007, 09:19 AM
awesome, also someone mentioned i think i was reading in this thread that going with ITBs also reduces weight of about 60 pounds?
Originally Posted by ERL_S2000,May 7 2007, 08:10 AM
I disagree, there is a bunch of work that goes into building a race head. If you just wanted to be simple, you could only do the cams WITH cam gears. Otherwise there is alot of work that can be done in the Combustion chambers and the exhuast side of the head, and that doesnt mean taking out a bunch of material.
So if I even did a cam, it would be mild lift/dur.
Also I would like the ability to change everything back to the stock parts.
Originally Posted by ERL_S2000,May 7 2007, 08:10 AM
I disagree, there is a bunch of work that goes into building a race head. If you just wanted to be simple, you could only do the cams WITH cam gears. Otherwise there is alot of work that can be done in the Combustion chambers and the exhuast side of the head, and that doesnt mean taking out a bunch of material.
On a side note, Pretty much your only option for increasing compression signifincantly on a "budget" would be if you had an F22C and you ran JDM F20C pistons. You can do this with your stock rings and sleeves no problem. This mod will give you almost a full point of compression on a completely stock head/valves. Good mod for 700 dollars in parts and about 800 dollars in labor. This only applies to JDM F20C pistons in F22Cs however.
I agree that the HP per dollar amount drops. It is alot of money for the gains. Also who does your haad is a big part of the deal. My experiance with alaniz has not been great. There is nothing wrong with my head but it is not for a NA application. I wish at the time when I did the motor build I could have found the resources that I have now. In my situation I am wanting as close to 300whp as possible. These gains can only be accomplished with the correct tyoe of head work and pistons. After talking with john and some others I now see what people are not doing and what has become common in a bad way. When wanting to make big power on a NA setup things have to be done right. Not that a simplely nice head with a nice dome piston wont work. but it isnt the best way to do it. Compression needs to be made in the Cumbusion chambers itself and not from the dome on the piston. Also the balanced between velocity and airflow is important. We both know what type of head work is best for these cars and know its very expensive to do. I will say it just like you did, the intake ports need no attention. However, the exhuast ports can be changed. The K series guys have been making BIG power with the use of a good cams. Now we can get in on that now that we have something to really work with and have already produced good numbers. It will be fun to watch the NA side of things develop. With the help of some, I think that a 300whp NA motor is not far off, and wont need a crazy amount of stroke to achieve.
hi folks, ive been reading this thread.... great thread and good info.
been talking to nate also
... good guy and great info.
well i just installed my 50mm jenvey kit from fuji racing and man i cant wait til this weekend for dyno tuning.... ill keep you guys posted, im so stoked.
here are couple pics (still need to polish the horn, theyve been sitting in the box for so long
)

been talking to nate also
well i just installed my 50mm jenvey kit from fuji racing and man i cant wait til this weekend for dyno tuning.... ill keep you guys posted, im so stoked.
here are couple pics (still need to polish the horn, theyve been sitting in the box for so long
)



