haha how can you tell theyre pico? if its my first time looking at the pic, i cant even tell what injsctors from those 2 pics... yeah and i like them, they are subtle, the nickle color flows wit the itb and theyre shorter.

thanks

heres a closer pic...

 

As soon as I can get pictures and everything complete, I am going to do a full write up on the build. The new headwork and piston type we are going to use is going to be pretty hardcore. The cumbustion chambers are going to be welded up as well as alot of work on the exhuast side of the head. Air velocity needs to be changed in areas, and the use of BIGGER valves is not BETTER.I have learned this from experiance. Also as some know the stock F20C motor uses a .030 head gasket. On a oem motor the pistons come .030 out of the hole. So basicly you are at 0 with the head gasket on. So one would think where is all the squish room ( clearancec between the piston/cumbustion chamber) ? The F series gets its clearance from the cumbustion chamber itself. To gain compression you change the dome cc on the pistons. Then it gets tricky with valve clearance and disrupts the burn parttern. By changing this setup and bringing the piston down, valve clearance has increased but comprssion has lowered. This all is fine with the type of piston we are using as compression itself can be made in better ways than dome cc. By using the F20C and 89mm Piston with have a 2.1L setup. Using a F20C crank in my eyes was the best way to go about things because of the piston speed. Also you can use KEEP your oil quirters which in my eyes is the right thing to do. Cams will play more into this but the overall concept of building a F20/F22C motor is going to change a bit. This setup with the propper cams and custom itbs will produce very very high hp numbers. The only draw back is the $$$$ that will be spent.

A nice set of itbs with a set of cams and propper exhuast is going to be the best bet for most people. The overall cost is still big for the gains, but its the overall powerband you will pay for and thats worth it to me. Increase in mid-high end power just from going this route was well worth it for the type of driving I love.

 

[QUOTE=s2kennmark,May 8 2007, 09:16 AM] hi folks, ive been reading this thread.... great thread and good info.

been talking to nate also

 

[QUOTE=s2kennmark,May 8 2007, 12:55 PM] haha how can you tell theyre pico? if its my first time looking at the pic, i cant even tell what injsctors from those 2 pics... yeah and i like them, they are subtle, the nickle color flows wit the itb and theyre shorter.

 

haha i got those really cheap... $45 each compare to $75 for RCs. these are branded by Edelbrock and made by Magneti Marelli

 

man those ITB's are sexy!

 

[QUOTE=MINES13,May 7 2007, 10:19 AM] Both the TWM and the Hayward/Jenvy setup allow you to keep your heater and AC.

 

On a stock setup, 48s will be stronger. If you are ABSOLUTELY gonna run cams and do head work then go for the 50s. 52s are too big, and 50s are almost too big also on a stock head.

 

The Hytech cams shouldnt have a detrimental effect on idle right?

 

Yeah, I bought the RCs for my TWM setup because you can ONLY use them. Hayward/Jenvy can use either or.