2011 Track Junkie Thread
I need confirmation here...I replaced my brake rotors and pads last weekend for track preparation and I noticed couple of bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir. I poked it with screw driver and it disappears. I pushed the caliper pistons as my usual brake pad replacement procedure. Now when I brake, my brake pedal sinks in a little from initial bite before it completely bites, it was not like this before. I usually have a good initial bite when I push the pedal. Now I have to compensate for the initial sinking in when I brake.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.
Ron,
Just rebleed them. I like to have the engine running because I think the vibration from the engine helps to dislodge air bubbles during the bleed.
For the sticking rear calipers, did you relube the sliding pins with caliper lube? If not try that and it should fix the stickyness (unless the pins are bent). Permex makes a nice synthetic green claiper lube that I use with good results. You can get a big jar of it at AutoZone.
Just rebleed them. I like to have the engine running because I think the vibration from the engine helps to dislodge air bubbles during the bleed.
For the sticking rear calipers, did you relube the sliding pins with caliper lube? If not try that and it should fix the stickyness (unless the pins are bent). Permex makes a nice synthetic green claiper lube that I use with good results. You can get a big jar of it at AutoZone.
I need confirmation here...I replaced my brake rotors and pads last weekend for track preparation and I noticed couple of bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir. I poked it with screw driver and it disappears. I pushed the caliper pistons as my usual brake pad replacement procedure. Now when I brake, my brake pedal sinks in a little from initial bite before it completely bites, it was not like this before. I usually have a good initial bite when I push the pedal. Now I have to compensate for the initial sinking in when I brake.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.

What do yall think of this baffle? Look any good? It's only $25: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/893...il-pan-baffle/
I need confirmation here...I replaced my brake rotors and pads last weekend for track preparation and I noticed couple of bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir. I poked it with screw driver and it disappears. I pushed the caliper pistons as my usual brake pad replacement procedure. Now when I brake, my brake pedal sinks in a little from initial bite before it completely bites, it was not like this before. I usually have a good initial bite when I push the pedal. Now I have to compensate for the initial sinking in when I brake.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.


Ron,
Just rebleed them. I like to have the engine running because I think the vibration from the engine helps to dislodge air bubbles during the bleed.
For the sticking rear calipers, did you relube the sliding pins with caliper lube? If not try that and it should fix the stickyness (unless the pins are bent). Permex makes a nice synthetic green claiper lube that I use with good results. You can get a big jar of it at AutoZone.
Just rebleed them. I like to have the engine running because I think the vibration from the engine helps to dislodge air bubbles during the bleed.
For the sticking rear calipers, did you relube the sliding pins with caliper lube? If not try that and it should fix the stickyness (unless the pins are bent). Permex makes a nice synthetic green claiper lube that I use with good results. You can get a big jar of it at AutoZone.
Originally Posted by Beepbeep' timestamp='1320243627' post='21121773
I need confirmation here...I replaced my brake rotors and pads last weekend for track preparation and I noticed couple of bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir. I poked it with screw driver and it disappears. I pushed the caliper pistons as my usual brake pad replacement procedure. Now when I brake, my brake pedal sinks in a little from initial bite before it completely bites, it was not like this before. I usually have a good initial bite when I push the pedal. Now I have to compensate for the initial sinking in when I brake.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.

Thanks, Pete.
Originally Posted by Beepbeep' timestamp='1320243627' post='21121773
I need confirmation here...I replaced my brake rotors and pads last weekend for track preparation and I noticed couple of bubbles in the brake fluid reservoir. I poked it with screw driver and it disappears. I pushed the caliper pistons as my usual brake pad replacement procedure. Now when I brake, my brake pedal sinks in a little from initial bite before it completely bites, it was not like this before. I usually have a good initial bite when I push the pedal. Now I have to compensate for the initial sinking in when I brake.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.
Brake works fine like that for regular driving but I'm afraid this will NOT hold in the track, especially front straight away at SP Main. I suspect air is in the system but before I will proceed to bleed the brake fluid again, I would like to ask some input/advice as to what else should I consider checking or doing to fix this issue.
The right rear brake is also sticking and rubber boots are both gone in the rear calipers. I'm thinking of buying Jason's rear calipers now.
Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance folks.



I guess that wouldn't be making a screetching sound.









