just surface material/deposits in the rotor and in the brake pad. I can wear down the brake pad with the metal wire brush to get the aluminum out, but not on the rotor.

 

Oleg, personally I'd leave the pads and rotor alone. Can you give us more detail on how the aluminum foil for the ball joints fouled the brake pads? Did you use aluminum tape or just foil?

 

I used the aluminum tape to wrap the ball joints. During driving tape touched the rotors a bit, rotors rubbed a little bit of aluminum off the tape and that was enough to smear the aluminum all across the rotor and into the pad material

 

I would do whatever you could to clean off the material (wire brush) then take them out and get them as hot as possible. Then check them after you get back and they cool off. It should be such a small amount of aluminum that I would think it would rub/burn off.

Anybody else have any ideas? Worst case is you replace the rotors if the above doesn't work.

 

i just put the new xp10s on. If it works it works....

 

agreed, if it's not chewed up the material/foil should just burn off... you could try cleaning it with brake parts cleaner and rebed, etc...

i wouldn't take a wirebrush to the pads..

 

Oleg - Congrats on the great looking new car. Hope it eliminates your daily driver bore factor.

 

Who else is ready for next weekend? I learned today the rx7 brake system uses a small brake bleeder (only 8mm vs. the 10mm s2k). Plus the actual nipple is smaller, which means the rubber hose I have to bleed the brakes doesn't create a good seal around the nipple.

Means I'll have to wait to the day before track time to bed the pads because of all the rain this week. I did buy the pre-bed but still follow a simple brake bedding routine.

 

You don't really need to. All you need is a warm up lap or 2 to get the pad seated on the rotor face.

 

I'm instructing somebody in a S2000. There are only 2 signed up in HDPE 1 which is pretty weak.

Somebody entered TTB in a 2010 M3.